The Material Review

Issue 011: Abercrombie's Overhaul, The Death of The Tie, An Interview with Brooks Reitz and A Roundup of Good Socks.

Michael Williams

and

Taylor Stacey

Jul 10, 2024

IN THE LOOP

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the entire internet.

The Unbranding of Abercrombie

“The problematic mall brand pulled off the most exciting makeover in American retail. How?” [The Cut]

The Coolest Menswear Item Right Now Is…An Oxford Shirt?

“‘Safe and preppy? Nah, accessibly hip. A longtime staple of men’s wardrobes, the Oxford shirt is being designed, and styled, in fresh ways.” [WSJ]

A Snob's Guide to Tennis Travel

“For some of the world's most desirable destinations, good courts are the ultimate amenity.” [T&C]

The Knotty Death of the Necktie

“The pandemic may have brought an end to a flourishing history.” [New Yorker]

The Century-Long Saga of the Caesar Salad

“The world-famous salad is the pride of Tijuana, Mexico. But 100 years later, no one can agree on who created it.” [NYT]

The short answer on office shorts: No

“Ask yourself these questions before you free your knees.” [WaPo]

ACTION ITEMS

A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.

William Frederick Studio Shirt

Development by NOROLL Outdated Cap

Vintage Made in USA Gramicci Shorts

Merz B. Schwanen Loopwheeled T-Shirt

Kaweco Steel Sport Rollerball Pen

STAKEHOLDERS

A weekly Q&A with friends of the program centered around buying intelligence.

A restaurateur, entrepreneur, writer, and home cook, Brooks Reitz is a multi-hyphenate with excellent taste across the board. He graciously took some time out of his busy schedule to talk with us about his favorite clothing brands, grilling set up and highly considered footwear rotation.

What’s a memorable recent purchase you’ve made?

One of my newsletter readers turned me onto Living Tree Community Foods several months ago. They're based in Berkeley and super crunchy in an old school hippie way that exists in that corner of California. It feels like a less self aware Erewhon and the products are fantastic, everything organic and with outstanding provenance. Their Almond Butter quickly became a house favorite and now I evangelize to anyone who will listen.

What's the most important thing you pack for every trip?

The one non-negotiable is clothing for exercise. I love to start the day with a run, especially in a new city or foreign country. I pack my running shoes, my favorite shorts (early Outdoor Voices which are still going strong, before the product took a turn South), and my favorite wicking tee - also early OV from a collaboration with APC.

What brands (if any) have your unequivocal trust?

Other than the rugby shirts, I love everything from Drake's, from suiting and dress shirts to their more casual gear. If you're a guy who isn't sure what to wear but you want to look smart AND stylish, it's the best resource I know of. They offer classic silhouettes and enough color, personality and verve to feel fresh. If I could only wear one brand for the rest of my life, Drake's is it.

RRL is another perennial favorite, and Sid Mashburn, much like Drake's, is a reliable resource. You'll always look great in Sid.

What's your outdoor grill / cooking set up? What kind of grill do you use or have your eye on?

I have a Weber Spirit and it gets a load of use. 8 months out of the year we are using the grill to cook dinner. I have a propane powered Ooni pizza oven that gets less use, because I actually prefer to grill my pizza on the Weber.

When I move out to the country I'd love to have a Grillworks wood burning grill, but it doesn't suit us at the moment.

What's your favorite luggage brand?

For longer voyages, I use a Rimowa coupled with an LL Bean tote. For shorter excursions, I use a Wm. J. Mills & Co. duffle. They've got great colors and everyone in the family has their own color.

Who makes your shoes?

I love shoes; from a young age I wanted to be a shoe designer. Here's a selection of my trusted options:

Brooks Hyperion Tempo for running - they've served me for years through Ironman training and various races and I've never had knee pain.

Belgian Shoes for their versatility - they look great with swim trunks and great with black tie. I always feel smart in Belgians and because they're lightweight they make a great travel shoe.

For sandals I wear a classic Birkenstock or Church's Fisherman sandal, which are as comfortable as a sneaker and look incredibly chic - especially in Black.

For a casual walk around sneaker I wear Common Projects. For bigger miles I am dedicated to the New Balance Made in USA 996. My grandmother sold New Balance shoes at the shoe store in my hometown and she was a longtime advocate for them.

In the winter I wear my Wolverine 1000 Mile Boot which I've been wearing for over a decade and have had resoled at least three times. They were my earliest lesson in buying better shoes and the cost per wear, at this point, is pennies.

SPOTLIGHT ON

Socks

American Trench

Bombas

Shiro

Zkano

J. Press

CLASSIFIEDS

Welcome to our weekly “Classifieds” section of the newsletter. The idea is to find an easy way to promote things happening in our ecosystem. Think of this space to promote your eBay shop, event, newsletter, app, book, tool or your personal brand (if you must). Drop us a line at if you’re interested in buying an item in an upcoming issue. Price: $200 for four ads. Maximum 280 character per ad.