The Material Review
Issue 136: Gulfstreams, Costco's Golden Age, Zipper Upgrade, Outdoor Gear Buying Guide, Useless Knowledge, The Expos, The Outsider III and Q&A w/ Rob Zangardi.
Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.
My First Gulfstream
“A top Information Age entrepreneur decided to join the elite fraternity of private-jet owners–a world in which you are what you fly, and size definitely matters. Sixteen months, $12 million, and thousands of F.A.A. regulations later, he assesses the ride.” [Vanity Fair Archive]
Can the Golden Age of Costco Last?
“With its standout deals and generous employment practices, the warehouse chain became a feel-good American institution. In a fraught time, it can be hard to remain beloved.” [The New Yorker]
The Zipper Is Getting Its First Major Upgrade in 100 Years
“By stripping away the fabric tape that’s held zippers together for a hundred years, Japanese clothing giant YKK is designing the future of seamless clothing.” [Wired]
A Buyer’s Guide to Shopping for Used Outdoor Gear: What to Look for and Why
My Hard-Won, Useless Knowledge
Why People Are Still Obsessed With the Montreal Expos
“Who Killed the Montreal Expos? is a new sports documentary that explores the downfall of a baseball team through a whodunit lens. Two of the filmmakers, plus Canadian baseball great Larry Walker, talk to GQ about the tragic end and enduring legacy of the Expos.” [GQ]
Dirty Clothes — Glimpses of a fashionably filthy wardrobe
“YES, it is dirty. YES, I love it.” [Fantastic Man]
A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.
Tom Beckbe Tenth Anniversary Tensaw Jacket
Warren Carryall (Patchwork Tote)
Reusable Ceramic Coffee Lid
66°North x District Vision Eiichi Explorer Sunglasses
William Ellery Ironstone Weekender
Viberg X David Coggins
The Outsider III
Rob Zangardi is a celebrity stylist and the founder of AUTER, a new outerwear line built on the idea that the right coat makes the outfit. We caught up with him to talk about breaking in Levi’s for his clients, why he finally launched his own brand after years of dressing other people, and his full-price pizza policy.
What’s one brand you love for every client, no matter their personal style?
Levi’s. There’s something for everyone. I’ve even worn in pairs myself so they feel softer and more weathered, then passed them on to clients. They just work on everyone.
What’s a memorable recent purchase you’ve made?
A vintage marble sculpture from my friend Jorge at Siglo Moderno. He finds the best one-of-a-kind pieces. Art, furniture, all of it. His eye is insane.
Can you tell us a little about your new brand, AUTER? What made you want to launch it now?
This sounds cliché, but I started AUTER because I couldn’t find the coats I wanted. I wanted something that felt structured but comfortable, like you forget you’re even wearing a coat. It’s outerwear that completes the look, the final layer, the coat you don’t want to take off when you get inside. After years of dressing other people, it felt like the right time to create something that reflects my own point of view.
What do you love about the outerwear category?
It’s what makes the outfit. You can have on pajamas, but if you throw on a great coat and the matching hat, you instantly feel put together. It’s what’s on the outside that counts.
What’s something you have your eye on?
Not to be self promotional, but honestly my spring collection. We just made the final selects this week and I can’t wait to start wearing them. They still have that same structure and comfort, just in lighter fabrics.
Has starting your own line changed how you shop for yourself or buy things in general?
Definitely. I pay a lot more attention to fabric and construction now. I buy less but better. I just want everything I own to feel intentional, even the simple stuff.
What’s one thing you’ll always buy at full price?
Pizza.
Outside of clothes, what are a few things you own that feel just as considered or well made?
My Samsung Frame TV. You forget it’s a TV when it’s turned off. A Cire Trudon candle. And honestly anything from Flamingo Estate. I’m obsessed with that entire line. Everything they make feels unbelievably considered. They should teach a course on intentionality.
Thank you for that ceramic lid!