The Material Review
Issue 121: Cormac McCarthy, Cape Cod Baseball, Acid Jazz, The Henry Ford of Chairs, Cuba's Architecture, Martinis, Barneys and Spotlight: ON at the US Open.
Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.
Two Years After Cormac McCarthy’s Death, Rare Access to His Personal Library Reveals the Man Behind the Myth
“The famously reclusive novelist amassed a collection of thousands of books ranging in topics from philosophical treatises to advanced mathematics to the naked mole-rat” [Smithsonian]
Wood Bats and Salt Air
“The league by the sea. Cape Cod Baseball Just Might Be the Purest Form of America’s Pastime.” [The Old Ghosts]
Talking Acid Jazz with Garmsville’s Jason Jules
“The stylish author of Black Ivy was there from the start” [Someone Else’s Song]
The Henry Ford of Chairs
Cuba’s Distinctive Architecture Glows in Vibrant Photos by James Kerwin
[Colossal]
I’m a martini purist. Here’s what is — and isn’t — in the perfect classic cocktail
He Made Barneys. He Lost Barneys. He Lived to Tell the Tale.
“Gene Pressman, the impresario behind the world-famous department store, would have done things differently.” [NYT]
A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.
Sabah Tokyo Woven Baba
Campbell's of Beauly Utility Suit Bag
The James Brand Kent
Engineered Garments Hunting Blazer
orSlow × BEAMS JAPAN 100 Super Dad Light-Weight Selvedge Denim Pants
ON at the US Open
In recent years, the thought of the “tennis shoe” in its literal form has tended to cause an instant recoil. Maybe it’s a case of peaking too early (thanks, Stan Smith), but for the most part, brands just haven’t been able to get it right. In a development that I can’t say I saw coming, ON seems to be figuring something out.
It’s an interesting time to be an observer of athletic footwear brands. Look at the running world, and it’s clear that the big mono brand era is dead. Running has splintered into a land of ten thousand vibes and spawned a thousand dedicated Substacks. (We won’t even talk about the run clubs.) Golf—for better or worse—has gone the streetwear route, but tennis remains the coolest of them all (it also has a legitimate stylish/smart print pub in Racquet Mag). The sport is having a renaissance of its own with ON at the forefront.
Having the exciting young talent of Ben Shelton and the stewardship of Roger Federer doesn’t hurt. For our money, there aren’t many brands executing as well as ON is right now. It’s managing to be big and feel fresh all at the same time. That’s an ace if you ask me. -MW
The ROGER Pro Fire
Classifieds
Welcome to our weekly “Classifieds” section of the newsletter. The idea is to find an easy way to promote things happening in our ecosystem. Think of this space to plug your eBay shop, event, newsletter, app, book, tool or your personal brand (if you must). Drop us a line at if you’re interested in buying an item in an upcoming issue. Price: $200 for four ads. Maximum 280 character per ad.
🩴 des américains
Mesdames et messieurs, l’été n’est jamais terminé. Inspired by '70s and '80s sporting style, retro-thick des américains thong sandals are handcrafted in Maine with the finest materials for unsurpassed comfort and durability. New styles, colorways, and more at desamericains.com.
🌁 Patina Studies Pop Up in San Francisco
Sept 6th. 1pm-7pm. 1 Columbus Ave SF, CA
Expect high-end menswear, vintage, samples, and other hand-picked pieces from:
Ryan Devens @tailorskeep, Peter Zottolo @urbancomposition, Victor Kernes @victorkernes, Mack Yuan @mack_brogue, plus more. Cocktails by @goldenrule and music from @ryanbadilla + @djrodchenko.
🛒 Factor’s Los Angeles Pop Up
Sep. 19-20th. 3210 Sunset Blvd, Suite 4
A little smattering of rtw/stock on hand & perennial/pre-fall & fall swatches for custom shirting, outerwear & suiting. Holler at us with any questions & come out!
🎣 Catch and Conserve Dinner: A Night at the Museum
Sep. 27. 5:30pm-9pm. Catskill Fly Fishing Center & Museum
Join us for an unforgettable evening of fine dining, curated wines, casting on the lawn and immersive history. Set on the banks of the hallowed Willowemoc River at the Catskill Fly Fishing Center & Museum, this year, we’re proud to celebrate the Wulff School of Fly Fishing and their dedication to educating anglers of all levels and sharing the beauty, skill, and art of the fly fishing.
When I think of ON I just think of suburbanites in athleisure.
I wear ON waterproof hiking sneakers when I photograph IMSA races and have loved them. I’m working on a variety of terrain from asphalt to grassy fields and wooden trails. They are incredibly comfortable when walking 6-12 miles a day for four days straight. I would never think of them as stylish, but they fit the purpose very well.
Also, very happy to see some love given to Sabah! I have two pairs of classic Sabahs and a pair of shearling Babas. They look great, I get compliments everywhere I go, and for something so simple, they are incredibly comfortable.