The Material Review
Issue 126: Uniqlo, Pizza Shelter, Lemons, Airline Status as Religion, Single-Handed Pants, Pancake Promised Land, Spotlight On: Big Rock Candy Mountaineering and Q&A w/ Chris Flynn of Vintage Trouts.
Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.
Inside Uniqlo’s Quest for Global Dominance
“The brand conceives of itself as a distribution system for utopian values as much as a clothing company. Can it become the world’s biggest clothing manufacturer?” [The New Yorker]
The Appalachian Trail's Famous "Pizza Shelter" Is Facing Demolition. This Hiking Group Is Fighting to Save It.
“The 501 “pizza” shelter and Eckville shelter are expected to be demolished between 2026 and 2027 due to an NPS policy that targets “nonconforming infrastructure.” Pennsylvania’s Blue Mountain Eagle Climbing Club is mounting a last-ditch campaign to stop it.” [Backpacker]
Race car drivers turn lemons (and $500) into an endurance contest like no other
[NPR]
Boarding Group One
“Why Status Is Our Last Religion” [JA Westenberg]
Single-Handed
“The best pants if you have one functional arm” [Articles of Interest]
How Williamsburg, Virginia, Became the Pancake Promised Land
“Virginia is for... pancake lovers? Forking into a syrup-soaked mystery” [Garden & Gun]
A Bucolic Stone-Skimming Contest in Scotland Is Infiltrated by Cheaters
“‘I did see some stones that looked a little too perfect,’ said the winner of the Stone Skimming World Championships. The offending contestants were disqualified.” [NYT]
A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.
Battenwear Stuff Bag
Yuketen Angler Moc
The Brothers K
Big Rock Candy Mountaineering
Metanoia Sweater
Nova Canvas Shirt
Arctic Parka
Doubleback Corduroy Pant
Stowe Sun Beanie
Chris Flynn is an angler, writer and the man behind vintage outdoor shop, Vintage Trouts. We talked about finally tracking down a long-sought Filson hat, why he prefers fishing light, and his take on the recent fly-fishing craze in fashion.
What’s a memorable recent purchase you’ve made?
One of the most memorable recent purchases I’ve made is a vintage Filson tin-cloth hat I’d been chasing for years. It features a scene of two anglers in a drift boat, a sight I know well from my own fly-fishing trips in Montana and upstate New York.
These hats were built for real use on rivers and trails, and most show their history, sun-faded, sweat-stained, and broken-in from miles of wear. This one, though, was pristine, as if it had been tucked away in a closet waiting for me. Finding it felt less like buying a hat and more like uncovering a small piece of outdoor heritage I now get to carry forward.
What’s something you have your eye on?
Right now I’ve really got my eye on vintage canvas wading jackets. The older jackets have a weight and patina that only come with time. They were built for hard days on the water, with big pockets, sturdy snaps, and canvas that softens over the years. Finding one with the right wear, a couple of faded patches, maybe even a hand-written name inside, feels like uncovering a little piece of angling history. They’re a huge source of inspiration for me and for what I’m trying to do with Vintage Trouts.
Do you wear fishing vests on the water? What’s your take on how much gear you carry with you while fishing?
I’ve been running a Fishpond waist pack for years, but I’m ready for a change.
I just picked up a vintage Filson Fly-Fishing Vest, Style 134, in my size. I’ve sold a few before but never kept one. It’s perfect for going light, and I can’t wait to break it in on steelhead and trout this fall. Great Lakes steelhead are big and dumb, you don’t need much gear for them anyway. The plan now is simple: pack only what matters and fish unburdened.
What’s your take on the recent fly-fishing craze in fashion?
When I read that Washington Post article back in June, I couldn’t help but wonder, was this the beginning of something or the end of it? Fly fishing showing up in the fashion pages felt both inevitable and a little surreal. I shared the piece on my Instagram and, sure enough, plenty of my die-hard angling friends rolled their eyes in unison.
But here’s my take: fly fishing and style have always been intertwined. From the first tweed-clad anglers in Scotland to waxed cotton jackets on American rivers, this isn’t a new collision, it’s a lineage. The gear, the materials, the ritual of dressing for the water, there’s a quiet sophistication to it. Whether the mainstream notices or not, that current has always been running.
Are there any under the radar brands you think more people should know about?
In no particular order, here are a few of my favorite brands right now. They’re not exactly under the radar anymore, but I can’t help admiring the work they’re putting out. Each one is pushing the culture forward in its own way, and it’s been fun to watch how they’ve grown.
Fera
Foris Outdoors
Nation Fishing Co
What’s your most coveted piece of vintage trouts gear that you would never sell?
The two things I could never part with. My dad’s old L.L. Bean fishing vest has hung in my fly-tying room since he passed in 2020, and my grandfather’s old fly rods sit right beside it. They’re not pristine showpieces, they’re worn from real days on the water. Those pieces hold the memory of the people who taught me to fish, and they’re a quiet reminder of why I started Vintage Trouts in the first place.
What fishing gear do you insist on buying new (if any)?
I usually fish with a mix of new and old gear, partly because I love the character and craftsmanship of vintage pieces, and partly because some things just perform better when they’re new.
Waders, boots, and rain gear are things I tend to buy new. On a very rainy day I tend to lean on my new Patagonia Torrentshell. But on the same day you might see me wearing a decades-old vest or hat; I like the blend. It keeps me connected to tradition while still trusting the gear that keeps me safe and effective on the water.