The Material Review

Issue 141: The Beaverslide, Grand Seiko, Rose Bowl Flea Market, Hobbies, Country Fairs, A New Rivay x ACL Collab and Q&A w/ Alan Kirk.

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

Why Don’t You Beaverslide?

[offrange]

4 Things I Learned About Grand Seiko on a Cross-Japan Road Trip

“Writer Oren Hartov criss-crossed Japan to divine what makes the brand so special and came home with a watch for myself.” [GQ]

An insider’s guide to the Rose Bowl Flea Market

“11 tips for having a successful trip to the flea, avoiding overwhelm, and uncovering treasures you’ll have forever. Plus a map with all my favorite booths.” [what’s mine is yours]

Do We Need Hobbies?

“We’re all busy. But are we busy in the right ways?” [The New Yorker]

Life & Death at the Country Fair

“During annual pilgrimages to my hometown carnival, I never fail to find meaning among the doughnut burgers, feather boas, and iridescent dragons.” [Bitter Southerner]

A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.

New Balance Made in USA 990v6

Carl Striped Polo In Merino Wool

Hestra Utsjo Glove - Elk/Fleece

RRL High Pile Full Zip Fleece

R.M. Williams for Trunk Gardener Waxed Suede Boot

Buck Mason Bulkhead Dungaree

Vintage Trouts 6-Panel Cap

Rivay x ACL

The Drop Off Jacket

Alan Kirk has spent his career focused on how good clothes are made. Now he’s applying that experience to S_019, a menswear line he runs between Milan and the US that’s centered on construction, longevity, and considered design. We caught up with him to talk about his new project, the motorcycle he’s hunting for, and what’s catching his eye these days.

What’s your history in the apparel business and what are you doing now?

I began my career in Scotland with a luxury womenswear brand, where I developed a deep appreciation for craftsmanship, precision, and heritage. After moving to the United States, I worked with respected American brands including Eddie Bauer and Filson, focusing on creating authentic, purpose-driven product.

I was lucky to collaborate with Nigel Cabourn on projects for both Eddie Bauer and Filson. Working with someone so rooted in history and archival design was incredible, and together we were able to build collections that felt timeless and grounded in real heritage.

Today, I divide my time between Milan and the US. I work with my business partner Enrico on our new brand and help manage the Milan studio, where we focus on making product with integrity and long-term value. I also started a small development and sourcing company with my son to support emerging brands as they create and produce their collections.

Can you tell us some more about your new brand, S_019. What made you want to launch it now?

S_019 grew out of a shared passion for garment construction, precise fit, and uncompromising quality. Enrico and I have been friends for a long time, and we had both been searching for menswear essentials that felt timeless and were built well enough to last for generations. We couldn’t find what we were looking for, so we decided to make it ourselves. It feels like the right moment because people are paying more attention to quality and longevity than ever before.

Are there any non-apparel brands you look to when designing for S_019?

We draw inspiration from a lot of places outside of apparel. The brand is really built around creating essential pieces—things every guy can wear, rely on, and keep for life. A lot of our early inspiration, much of it driven by my business partner Enrico, comes from architecture and photography. We look to the clarity and restraint of Dieter Rams, the structural purity of Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, and the grounded, human storytelling of August Sander, among others.

What do you love about the outerwear category?

Outerwear has always been important to me, especially growing up in Scotland. It is where I studied fashion and where I first learned how to make functional, honest product. Every outerwear piece we design starts from a reference point in real history or a garment made for a specific purpose. More than any other category, outerwear needs to be thoughtful and intentional. The fabric, fit, and function all need to work together.

What’s a memorable recent purchase you’ve made?

I searched for a very long time to find the perfect vintage Ingot silver bracelet and I was lucky to find one in Santa Fe. I have not taken it off since.

What’s something that you have your eye on?

I am an avid motorcycle rider and have been on the hunt for an early generation 1150 BMW GS. I really like this era and design, especially in the Dakar Rally colors. Any time I have when I am not working you will find me on a motorcycle.

Is there something you’ve owned or worn for years that still feels essential to you?

I have a few pieces that will always feel essential to me. One is a 1950 Eddie Bauer down jacket I found in Japan years ago while shopping with Nigel Cabourn. It reminds me why heritage matters. It is beautifully made, functional, and full of history, and I still wear it all the time.

For everyday wear, I’m a big fan of The Real McCoy’s pieces from Japan, especially their loopwheel tees and fleece. They’re simple, honest, and incredibly well made. On the footwear side, Viberg is my default, though I have a pair of RRL roughout cowboy boots that I reach for often.

Are there any brands or makers you’d recommend to just about anyone?

I am always ready to recommend Viberg boots. Brett Viberg is a good friend of mine and I think he makes incredibly high quality shoes and boots. I would also recommend Jacques Marie Mage eyewear. The quality, style and attention to details are second to none.

Has starting your own line changed how you shop for yourself or how you buy things in general?

In a sense it has. Although I’ve always been drawn to well-made pieces, now more than ever I appreciate the details that make something unique. A lot of my own shopping now is in the vintage world where I find a lot of inspiration for our own line.

What’s one thing you will always buy at full price?

Really great photography or art.

Outside of clothes, what are a few things you own that feel just as considered or well-made?

I have an older Mercedes G63. I appreciate its timeless luxury, simplicity and that it is still largely hand-assembled.

Are there any under-the-radar brands you like that more people should know about?

There are so many interesting brands coming on the market, but a few that come to mind are:

Kaptain Sunshine, orSlow, Olderbrother, 18 East, Lady White Co, Measnwhile, Ten C.