The Material Review
Issue 040: Jake Mueser, Bon Iver, East Fork Pottery Recovers, Q&A with Rose & Co. and the New Howlin' x Monocle Collab.
Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.
Five Fits With: Tailoring Expert Jake Mueser
“The man behind the J.Mueser brand talks suiting up, opting for subtlety, and why skipping a tie isn't quite as simple as it seems.” [Esquire]
Bon Iver is Searching for the Truth
“The artist Justin Vernon discusses his new EP ‘SABLE,’ the dream of a happy adulthood, and his worry that he’s purposely repeating a ‘cycle of sorrow.’” [The New Yorker]
After Hurricane Helene, East Fork Pottery and Asheville Artists Set a Course Forward
“The devastation of Helene has reshaped the community of artists and local family-owned businesses in western North Carolina.” [Vanity Fair]
How I Fell Back in Love with iPhone Photography
“A new feature on the camera app Halide allows you to take pictures without Apple’s A.I. optimization.” [The New Yorker]
How the ‘Pulp Fiction’ Poster Became a Dorm Room Staple
“In 1994, Miramax’s art team set out to make a movie poster that captured the vibe and influences of Quentin Tarantino’s indie breakout. Thirty years later, it’s still the go-to choice of freshmen across the country.” [The Ringer]
New York menswear is back!
“The city’s retail offering for men has been lacklustre, but a wave of product lovers are seeking to change that” [Financial Times]
A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.
Barbour Spey Jacket
Tarvas Easy Hiker
Orslow Houndstooth Tweed Trousers
L'ÉTIQUETTE MEN N°13
Sealson Mini Pouch
A weekly Q&A with friends of the program centered around buying intelligence.
David Rose and Evan Backes are responsible for one of our favorite eyewear brands, Rose & Co. Well-traveled with a discerning eye for quality, we talked golf bags, brands they trust, buying for a lifetime and carry-on essentials.
What’s a memorable recent purchase you’ve made?
DR: I recently picked up a Benelli Montefeltro Shotgun. My son and I have been getting into skeet and trap shooting for fun, but sharing his Remington 870 Express just wasn’t cutting it. I’ve always heard great things about Benelli shotguns, top notch performance and reliability, etc.. Eventually, we'd like to get into duck and pheasant hunting, and this shotgun is perfect for that. Plus, I’ve always wanted something that could be passed down from generation to generation.
EB: I spent a few days in Paris with my wife back in August and went to the Brut shop. I succeeded in only buying 2 things: a Summer Shirt and a "Rework" Detroit-style jacket. That store will melt your credit card.
What is something you’ve had your eye on?
DR: The Blank Canvas Carry Golf Bag by Random Golf Club is just my style. I love the minimalistic design. It reminds me of my grandfather’s canvas bag, which had that amazing cigar smoke smell and collection plastic badges from all the golf course he played. If that bag could talk, I can only imagine the stories it would tell, haha!
EB: The Harrison Desk Chair by Truck Furniture in Osaka. We're renovating our home office space so I've been looking for a new desk chair for quite some time. Naturally, the one I fell in love with is not so easy to get. A little over 20 years ago, I bought the Truck Works catalog and have been hooked ever since.
What brands (if any) have your unequivocal trust?
DR: Yeah, I’m trying to focus on buying more lifetime pieces. I got a pair of Alden plain toe boots a while back, and I’m really happy with how they’ve aged, they’ve held up beautifully. APC raw denim has always been a reliable go-to for me. I’ve also collected several pieces from Engineered Garments, the look, feel, and fit are fantastic. All three brands are solid investment, and I’ll keep going back to them time and time again.
EB: Trust is a peculiar word when it comes to brands. For me, trust comes when quality and reliability overlap. I think of my Rapha cycling jacket, Heath Ceramics, Kamaki garden pruners, Malin+Goetz deodorant or Mater bar soap to name a few.
ID your carry-on bag?
DR: Several years ago, while working in Japan, I picked up a camouflage Briefing urban tote bag for my travels between cities on the Shinkansen. I needed something functional and tough for my factory visits, and this has been perfect. It’s a Japanese brand, but they partner with a military factory used by the US Army to make their bags, so you know it’s going to be both highly functional and practically indestructible. I bought the bag back in 2010, and after countless trips,
it still looks brand new.
EB: I picked up a Makr Offset Tote bag in the Spring to use when I go to the office, but then just started travelling with it as well. The construction is solid and the price is good too. I've been a long-time fan of Makr—I probably first heard about them on ACL back in the late 2000s—and I'm thankful they're still putting out quality products.
What do you bring on the plane in your carry-on bag?
DR: Aether Apparel's Eco Space Hoodie jacket is an absolute must have for me, I never leave home without it! Then there’s my Jack Spade camouflage toiletry kit from early 2010. This thing was built to last, and I’m a big fan of camo, as you might guess. Oh, and while I was working at SALT Optics, we teamed up with Briefing for a limited edition multi frame case. Naturally, it’s indestructible, so I take it everywhere.
EB: I generally try to pack as light as possible, so I usually just bring my Macbook Pro, Airpods, my Rose & Co A4's and a zippered pouch by Puebco that I picked up on my last visit to Japan. This way you always have room to bring home souvenirs.