The Material Review
Issue 163: The Pie and Mash Crisis, Bar Soap, Rogue Streaming Boxes, Clothes Enthusiasts, Luxury Grocery Stores, Decommissioned Airport Terminals, 80+ Japanese Brands and Spotlight On: Suede.
Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.
The pie and mash crisis: can the original fast food be saved?
“There used to be hundreds of pie and mash shops in London. Now there are barely more than 30. Can social media attention and a push for protected status ensure their survival?” [The Guardian]
Soapbox
“The humble bar of soap used to define the American way. Now it’s dying. I will not let it go down without a fight.” [Slate]
Everyone is stealing TV
“Fed up with increasing subscription prices, viewers embrace rogue streaming boxes.” [The Verge]
What type of clothes enthusiast are you?
“Pathetic slave to a zombie fungus? Or appreciative swaggy master of your own intentions and desires? A new Profound Spyplane” [Blackbird Spyplane]
The Booming Business of Luxury Grocery Stores
“A new crop of gourmet grocers has hit the city, drawing lines of trendy TikTokers, MAHA-curious health fiends and Instacart devotees who want to pop in for a treat.” [WSJ]
“Enormous structures tend to be built to last. Airport terminals are usually the reverse”
“Greater effort must be made to retain decommissioned airport terminal buildings, writes Anthony Paletta.” [Dezeen]
80+ Japanese Clothing Brands You’ve Never Heard Of
A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.
Helinox Chair Zero LT
Q Timex Red Vega 1978 Reissue
Ibex Nautilus Fisherman Sweater
POPEYE “Hello, Tokyo!” English Edition
OneClock
Fayad x Coggins Sawtooth Western in Linen
Suede
Bleu de Chauffe Adèle tote bag
Ralph Lauren RL67 Suede Jacket
Sunspel Suede Jacket
Engineered Garments x Alden - Indy Oxford
Buck Mason Rambler Suede CPO
hobo Double Ring Belt Pig Suede Dark Brown
Classifieds
Welcome to our weekly “Classifieds” section of the newsletter. The idea is to find an easy way to promote things happening in our ecosystem. Think of this space to promote your eBay shop, event, newsletter, app, book, tool or your personal brand (if you must). Drop us a line at if you’re interested in buying an item in an upcoming issue. Price: $200 for four ads. Maximum 280 character per ad.
🛒 PML Napoli Trunk Show at Leffot
February 18–19. 12 pm to 7 pm. 10 Christopher St. New York, NY 10014
PML is the ready-to-wear line from bespoke maker Pommella. Each item is made in Italy in small batches from vintage or rare fabrics. Gianluca will be joining us to launch new items and take orders for the classics you’ve come to know, like PML’s trousers and cashmere overshirts.
Appointments are suggested but not required. Join us in the store or with a virtual appointment
🛒 Gitman Vintage Spring/Summer ‘26 collection
Our Spring/Summer ‘26 collection is now live on our website. This first release features a global approach to textiles, with styles from India, Japan, and the USA.
🛒 Rancourt & Co. Anniversary Sale
Enjoy 30% off a select assortment of our best-selling styles for a limited time, offered as a thank you to customers who walk alongside us. Discount applied at checkout.
🛒 OMTC End of Season Sale - 20% Off