The Material Review
Issue 208: Expensive Clothes, Big Boy, Mysterious Shoe Brand, Little Red Government Box, Anti-Sunscreen Movement, Dressing The Man, Links, and Q&A w/ Brother Brother.
Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.
Why Does This Jacket Cost $770? Because It Made Me a New Man.
“Lots of men are geeking out over very expensive clothes — and I became one of them.” [NYT*]
A Locomotive Named Big Boy Is Making Grown Men Cry
“The world’s largest operating steam locomotive is on its first coast-to-coast tour; ‘I was choked up’” [WSJ*]
How Did This Mysterious Shoe Brand Come To Define Good Footwear?
The makers of the little red government box
“Who are the elusive craftsmen behind one of Britain’s most prized possessions, shared by monarchs, prime ministers and private collectors?” [FT*]
The Anti-Sunscreen Movement Is Coming for You
“Sunscreen—one of the only products scientifically proven to reduce the risk of skin cancer—is in the middle of a PR crisis, with skeptics claiming it’s hazardous to your health. Experts dismiss the claims as misinformation, but has the damage already been done? MH investigates.” [Mens Health]
Is “Dressing The Man” Still Worth Reading?
[Wardrobe]
A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.
The Anthology Sueded Linen Suit Jacket - Ink Blue
Drake’s Hiking Jacket
Scarpa Rove Rock S GTX
School of Thought Side Pant in Khaki
Left Field NYC Crazy Shirt
From the Feed
IG: fishnthrift
IG: Canon - 093 Tennis Cycle I (Wimbledon, Fonika vs. Auger-Aliassime)
Gary Indjian and Greg Okawachi of Brother Brother
Gary Indjian and Greg Okawachi are the men behind Brother Brother, a Los Angeles shop with a great eye for well-made things and an expanding in-house line of their own. We admire the thoughtful way they’ve built the business and wanted to hear more about how they think, so we caught up to talk about the labels they’re most excited about, the products they’re still making the case for, and what they’ve been into lately outside of clothing.
What’s your overall vision for Brother Brother? What made you want to start this shop?
GO: From the first day we opened our door, the intention was to provide a unique assortment of products in a familiar and familial environment. It was always about prioritizing the interaction over the transaction. Both of us had been working in men’s fashion at different capacities and we both felt like our ideas and vision were better applied to a brand or business we could call our own.
GI: For me it always came back to wanting a space that felt like an extension of how we actually dress and think about goods, not an ecosystem for whatever was trending. Greg and I had spent enough time inside of this industry to know what we did and did not want to repeat. Starting our own thing meant we could be patient about who we worked with and grow with our customers instead of just moving products. From day 1 and now 7 years later - it’s still a lifestyle shop and place to hang.
Pick one brand that’s on the racks today. Where did you first discover it, and what convinced you it belonged at Brother Brother?
GO: Unlikely Dry Goods is the brainchild of Nakada Shinsuke. He has been a north star for me for quite some time, and when the opportunity came to work together it was really a no brainer. The product is perfectly considered and is the type of stuff I want to wear all the time. That’s sort of the litmus test when it comes to picking out goods for the store.
GI: Arpenteur was one of those brands I kept circling back to years before we ever placed an order. There’s something about how they hold onto traditional French workwear silhouettes without ever feeling costume-y - the cut is honest, the fabrics are considered, and none of it is shouting for attention. It rewards the customer who actually stops and looks closely, which is the whole point of how we want people to shop.
What’s something your customers have taught you that changed the way you buy for the shop?
GO: I think we’re incredibly blessed to have customers who invest and trust our eye for certain goods and brands. Something that other shops often rely on is the cache or momentum brands and products have rather than their own point of view. Our customer has reinforced the notion that if you can build a relationship with them around great customer service, they will trust your taste and try things they might not find anywhere else.
GI: That the story behind a piece matters as much as the piece itself. I’d sometimes buy something purely because it was well made and assume that would be enough. What I learned is our customers want to have a conversation around brands, references, fabric, etc - it’s special to see our customer come in with knowledge baked into their shopping habits.
What’s a product in the shop you’re still evangelizing, the one that needs a conversation before it clicks? What do people usually miss?
GO: Kind of a crazy take, but I think our customer is sleeping on Margaret Howell. It is the oldest brand that we stock (she’s been making clothes at an incredibly high level for 50+ years) but it’s relatively quiet. I think there are newer brands coming out of the UK that are very much inspired by her offering, but few do it at the same level. Once you walk a customer through some of the construction details or the fabrications, they begin to look at clothes and brands through a different lens.
GI: Carry goods, specifically Amiacalva and Klättermusen. It’s a funny category because nobody actually needs another bag - everyone’s got one that works fine. But when you find the right one, you want it bad, and that’s the conversation I love having. I love making people do a wear test around the shop carrying different totes.
How do you know when an idea should become a Brother Brother product instead of simply something you admire from another brand?
GO: I think Gary and I share this crazy enthusiasm for product and recognize how important it is to respect and understand what ultimately adds value to our customers. Because we also produce our own collection, there are times when we’d rather not attempt to enter a certain category or lane for the sake of doing it, and just let the specialists of that product be the authorities on it. From a design standpoint, there are certain things our customer might never care for and that’s completely fine. I think knowing who you are and being exceptional at what you do is much easier than chasing a trend or adopting a story that isn’t true to you.
GI: ^^^^
What’s the best thing either of you has bought recently that wasn’t inventory for the shop?
GO: On my last trip to Tokyo I bought a new pair of sunglasses. I’m in the habit of buying the same style of sunglasses whether vintage or new. This time I stepped away from my usual shape and settled on this collaborative pair from Eyevan & Kolor. I love them and for how much time I spend in the car, my eyes do too.
GI: I got obsessed with this pen that was completely sold out online - which, naturally, made me want it more than anything. It’s the uni-ball ZENTO Signature Model. Looks great, writes even better, and somehow the one that’s currently sticking out from the vast sea of pens in my bag as the go-to.
What’s the last thing you became genuinely obsessed with that had nothing to do with clothes?
GO: My 6mo daughter. She has put so much into perspective for me haha, and while I still love thinking about clothes and product– I’m so stoked that all of my hobbies and interests have become consumed by being a dad.
GI: I’m on a “reading books about Los Angeles” tear right now. I was born and raised here, but I’m obsessed with seeing our beautiful city through the perspectives of different authors at different times. I’m just getting started on The Library Book by Susan Orlean, and I recently wrapped a few by Jack Smith, whose columns are basically a time capsule of the city.
Looking around the shop today, what’s something that probably wouldn’t have made it onto the racks three years ago? What’s changed in your eye?
GO: We started carrying the brand H-O-R-S-E, which is just a little over a year old. It’s a more femme leaning unisex line that executes athletic apparel in natural fabrics. Sue, their founder, has a great eye for visuals and a refreshing take on clothing. It has taken some time, but I think I’ve become more confident in supporting our growing female audience. Especially when you can do so with rad brands that are doing great work.
GI: I think as the shop has grown, the customer who’s been with us from the early days has grown right along with us - what Greg and I are obsessed with shifts season to season, and they’ve been open to coming on that ride. We have some newness coming into the shop over the next few seasons that we’re both really excited about, and we can’t wait to share it with our customers.
As a thank you, Gary and Greg have generously offered 20% off everything at Brother Brother. Use code TMR20 at checkout or shop through the link below — good through August 31.