The Material Review

Issue 009: Cary Grant's Enduring Style, 100 American-Made Products, An Interview with Writer Eric Twardzik and Last-Minute Beach Gear.

Michael Williams

and

Taylor Stacey

Jul 03, 2024

IN THE LOOP

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the entire internet.

Why In-the-Know Men Are Dressing Like Cary Grant in 2024

“Stylish guys are now embracing a refined, almost old-timey, style: ‘It projects power and confidence.’” [WSJ]

When Do You Need to Get to the Airport? We Did the Math

“Here are the factors to consider, including when and how you’re getting there, down to the minute” [WSJ]

The Doctor Tom Brady and Leonardo Dicaprio Call When They Get Hurt

Neal ElAttrache, the surgeon to the stars of sport and screen, can fix anything. [The New Yorker]

The 100 Best American-Made Products

“Celebrating the gear, clothes and goods that are the life’s work of our fellow americans.” [InsideHook]

ACTION ITEMS

A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.

Factor’s Long Sleeve Linen Blouse

Wary Meyers Poolside Liquid Soap

Bather Ocean Embroidered Swim Trunk

STAKEHOLDERS

A weekly Q&A with friends of the program centered around buying intelligence.

Eric Twardzik is one of our favorite writers and amongst the most trusted voices in menswear today. He shares our deep appreciation for things that stand the test of time and was gracious enough to speak with us about some recent purchases, his favorite cocktail bar and what he’s been reading.

What’s a memorable recent purchase you’ve made?

I just bought a garment-washed linen overshirt from Polo Ralph Lauren that I'm a bit obsessed with. I feel like I've bought this sort of lightweight summer layer from other makers many times over, but it's never quite worked out until now. The military styling is great, but the garment-washing and gauzy linen fabric keeps it out of Travis Bickle territory, and I appreciate that it doesn't have the faux army patches that usually turn me off. The rest of the details are just so cool: pleated chest pockets, an action back and half-belt–I've become an evangelist for this thing. I haven't seen it in any stores, and the green colorway I bought is nearly sold out online, though I see they're stocking it at Saks too. I plan on wearing it all summer with white Sunspel tees and Ghurka shorts.

Where is the best place to buy shirts?

I have the world's weirdest neck and sleeve measurements—14.5" neck with a 37" sleeve—so anything long-sleeved is MTO. I wear a Sid Mashburn oxford shirt almost daily, their MTO program is very well priced and easy to figure out online. I also have some great oxfords made by my friend Glenn Au of Junior's, which checks all the Ivy boxes—locker loop, back collar button, etc.

Where's your favorite cocktail bar?

In 2016 I visited Japan with my two brothers and stayed at an Airbnb in Shinjuku. We had the heavy hitters in our itinerary—Bar High Five, Zoetrope, etc—but the best cocktail bar we visited ended up being a tiny, otherwise anonymous bar on the upper floor of an office building called Bar Cocktail Book. Perhaps because that name makes it nigh-impossible to google, I've never seen it on any other city guides or lists. But it was, to my mind, the perfect bar: dark woods, a handful of seats, and a single bartender named Akira (also the owner) who'd rotate down old jazz vinyls on a turntable between making flawless drinks. He barely spoke English—and we spoke zero Japanese—but with a few hints he was still able to divine exactly what we wanted. At a certain point, we were just ordering drinks to observe his technique, which was precise and beautiful with every motion: in other words, very Japanese. I'm not sure if I'll ever be there again, but I check its Instagram now and then to make sure it still exists.

ID your carry-on bag?

Some years ago I was gifted Ettinger's Piccadilly tote. It's made from a cotton drill canvas that feels bulletproof, and its shape is more akin to a briefcase. Most importantly, its soft construction means it can expand to hold a ton of gear—I can fit in my laptop, chargers, a couple of print books (I've been known to travel with three a time) and a pair of Belgian loafers to slip into once I board the flight. There's often room to smuggle in a few things purchased at my destination, too.

What is something you’ve had your eye on?

J. Press makes these great madras popovers—they're what I wear on the hottest summer days when most normal people are just in a T-shirt. Though I have no room in my closet, every season I'm tempted to pick up a few more because the colors are just so strong. I really love a madras that's more muted or even sepia-toned.

What are you reading / what do you subscribe to?

I always have a few books going, and they always have to be in print, which makes my apartment something of a hoarding situation when it comes to books. I just finished Winston Churchill Reporting: Adventures of a Young War Correspondent, which is a nice reminder of how insane Churchill's early life was—taking part in the last great cavalry charge in history, breaking out of prison in South Africa and hiding in mine shafts and coal cars. It's ironic that these episodes are overshadowed by how epic his later role in history became.

I subscribe to The New Yorker and the FT and look forward to spending proper time with each every weekend. At a time when we're used to seeing fragments of words on screens, fighting for space with auto-play videos and pop-up ads, it's a relief to just see these tall, pure columns with nothing but letters. And since becoming a father last year, I've gotten a kick out of holding up a big, actual print newspaper at the breakfast table with my son while he babbles away. All I need is a pipe.