The Material Review
Issue 069: Gene Hackman's Old-School Appeal, The New Silicon Valley It Car, Masterful Japanese Denim, Sensory-Friendly Clothing, Spotlight On: Plaid and a Q&A with Jeremy Kirkland.
Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.
Gene Hackman’s Gritty, Grouchy, Old-School Style
“Between the idols of Hollywood’s golden age and the media-savvy stars of today, he had an appeal all his own.” [NYT]
Can Rivian outfox Tesla in Elon Musk’s own backyard?
“Silicon Valley has found itself a new It car” [HTSI]
These Japanese Jeans Turned Me Into a True-Blue Denimhead
“In a past life, this writer sold jeans by the dozen—but he struggled to find the right pair for himself. A fateful encounter with OrSlow's masterful dungarees led him to denim zen.” [GQ]
Feeling Anxious? There’s a Sweatshirt for That.
“Irked by scratchy tags or seams? A new wave of sensory-friendly clothing helps quell anxiety.” [WSJ]
How Walmart and Amazon Fuel the Dupe Economy
“And set rules for creators and publishers who promote them.” [Back Row]
A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.
Carter Young Chicago Chore Jacket
mfpen Straight Cut Jeans
On Roger Pro 2
Vintage Orvis Malpai Shirt
WHR Dust Dye Promo Hat
Plaid
Mister Freedom Secoya Shirt
Evan Kinori Big Coat
Drake’s Blackwatch Fine Woven Grenadine Silk Tipped Tie
Original Madras Trading Company N°80 Robe
Nanamica Plaid Dock Trousers
Gitman Vintage Red Archive Indian Ikat Madras
Menswear stalwart Jeremy Kirkland is the longtime host of Blamo! Fresh off the launch of his new Substack, he chatted with us about Lego, his new favorite vest, being a Seiko-boi and the best place to buy pants.
What’s a memorable recent purchase you’ve made?
I purchase quite a bit of clothes, from vintage on eBay to proxies from Japan, but I started buying and building Lego sets and have been having the time of my life. I recently purchased one of the Lego modular sets and have been building with my kids—no screens, no stress, just building Lego.
What is something you’ve had your eye on?
This field vest from 3sixteen. Their spring-summer ‘25 collection is excellent. I love how their brand has evolved over the years. Give me more pockets, plz.
What makes a brand stand out to you these days?
A strong point of view – always. I grow weary of brands that more or less use the same lookbook, styles, or feel they have to make something for every audience. When we all look the same, life is a bit boring.
What watches are you currently excited about?
I will always be a Seiko-boi. I love collecting vintage Seiko and helping my friends re-discover the brand. Grand Seiko has been on a tear lately though, their finishing is suburb, the movements are phenomenal, and yes, the bracelets are getting better!
Where is the best place to buy pants?
Jeans - 3sixteen
Custom Trousers - J. Mueser
Casual Trousers - Applied Art Forms
Vintage - Ralph Lauren Phillip Pants on eBay
What’s the best in-person shopping experience you’ve had?
The Real McCoy’s in Tokyo. It feels like you just walked into a shoppable movie set. There is plenty of stock, things you’ve never seen before, and their service is perfect. I could spend hours in there - and have. ;)
Agreed on the shopping experience at the Real McCoy’s. Last time I was there they were streaming a fantastic jazz album that they were happy to share with me (sadly it wasn’t on any streaming services, that’s how deep a cut it was - super on brand).
I used to be really into expensive denim. Something changed when I started reading old western books and now I just think blue jeans should just be cheap. I really think Filson Railsplitter jeans are perfect. Also vintage Levi’s 505s are so good.