The Material Review

Issue 143: Pizza Hut in Moscow, Joan Didion’s Thanksgiving, Substack Isn't Cool, Socks in Japan, Bell Labs, Wigs, A Good Haircut, Spotlight On: Parkas, and Q&A with Joe Freitag of Serengeti.

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

Pizzastroika

“In 1990, in the last breaths of the Cold War, a delicious act of American subversion unfolded in Moscow. It’s long been forgotten. It shouldn’t be.” [Slate]

Joan Didion’s Thanksgiving: Dinner for 75, Reams of Notes

“The author’s newly unveiled papers reveal the meticulous planning and devotion to cooking that went into her big holiday meals.” [NYT]

What I Meant When I Said Substack Isn’t Cool

“The platform owns the newsletter space so completely its name is a synonym for the form, writes Chris Black, but it’s still just another algorithm.” [GQ]

Why socks in Japan are a serious business

“In the west, socks tend to be an afterthought. In Japan, they are an indispensable part of sartorial culture” [FT]

The Boring Part of Bell Labs

“How Bell Labs supported itself between moonshots” [Elizabeth Van Nostrand]

Wigging? Out!

“The English Establishment has been shaken by the end of one of its oldest—and most hair-raising—traditions” [Air Mail]

Why a bespoke suit is like a haircut

[Permanent Style]

A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.

Filson x Blundstone #2535 Chelsea Boot

Maintenance of Everything

Pilgrim Lipsi Corduroy Pant

The Print Edition

Wythe Washed Flannel Pearlsnap Shirt

Parkas

Adsum Field Parka - Navy

Sid Mashburn Cashpad Fishtail Parka

FrizmWORKS Karakoram Down Parka

Post O’Alls DEE Parka Salt and Pepper

Patagonia DAS® Parka

Choosing the right eyewear can feel like one of those small but strangely overwhelming decisions, so it helps to hear from someone who sees the category clearly. Joe Freitag mixes deep experience with a relaxed, grounded way of talking about product that is easy to trust. Now leading Serengeti’s U.S. revival, he has a sharp sense of what actually matters in a pair of sunglasses. He’s also just a great guy, which made us especially glad to sit down with him and talk through what to look for and what actually makes a difference.

Can you share a bit about your background and how you ended up at Serengeti?

The short version is that I’ve spent most of my career in eyewear, mostly through the action sports world. My background is in brand and product direction, and in 2019 I joined Bollé Brands as the Global VP of Brand for SPY Optic. Over time, I started overseeing operations for all of our brands in North America.

Our global headquarters are in Lyon, France, where Serengeti was being managed at the time. In 2023, we decided to bring the brand stateside and move it under my leadership at our North American headquarters in Carlsbad, California.

Even though I spent years in action sports, I’ve always loved well-made heritage goods. Premium denim, leather, handcrafted eyewear, so getting the chance to lead an iconic American brand like Serengeti was something I was genuinely excited about.

When people shop for sunglasses, what do you think they get wrong most often?

They overlook the importance of investing in high-quality lenses. People tend to focus on how the frames look or how they’re built, but the lens is the reason sunglasses exist. Great lenses don’t just protect your eyes and ultimately your health, they help you see the world better.

There’s so much talk around lens tech right now. In your view, what actually makes a difference day to day?

The most ignored and overlooked ingredient – the base material and quality of the lens. If the base material of your lens is not high quality (and there A LOT of different grades of lens materials), it doesn’t matter what coatings or enhancements it has, it’ll be sub-par, and so will your vision. We only use the highest quality mineral glass or Trivex® for our lenses. No compromises.

Fit seems to trip a lot of people up. What’s your advice for finding frames that actually work for you?

Think of it like finding the right pair of shoes. There’s no universal fit. Frame width, temple length, bridge size, face shape… they all play a role. You really do need to try them on and see what feels natural. Ideally, your eyes should line up with the optical center of the lenses.

A few simple tips:

• Frames shouldn’t sit on your cheeks or ride too high on your nose.

• Temples should curve comfortably behind your ears.

• They should feel secure but not tight. Tightness can lead to fatigue.

Material matters too. Acetate frames, like most premium eyewear, can be adjusted for a perfect fit. Sportier nylon frames usually can’t.

What details or materials separate a great pair of sunglasses from one that just looks good online?

It always comes back to lenses. If you’re spending good money on eyewear, it’s worth looking into what the lenses are made from, how they’re constructed, and whether you can get them in prescription. When a brand puts real care into lens quality and pairs it with good frame design and fit you’ll feel the difference every time you wear them.

For frames, it depends on how you’ll use them. If you run, fish, or spend a lot of time outdoors, a lightweight nylon frame is usually best. If you want something for everyday life that looks a bit more refined, acetate is usually the preferred option.

Serengeti had a real following for years before stepping out of the spotlight. What’s been the hardest part of bringing that energy back?

Awareness, for sure. If you’re under 50, there’s a good chance the name Serengeti might be new to you. That’s both our challenge and our opportunity. To reintroduce an iconic brand to a whole new generation.

One fun part has been hearing from people who found their dad’s old Serengetis and want to know the story behind them. There’s a real emotional connection there.

The other big challenge is explaining just how special the lenses are. The heritage, the clarity, the technology. You really need to see through them to understand.

For someone looking to buy one pair that’ll last for years, what should they pay attention to?

If you’re really looking for an heirloom quality pair of sunglasses, I’d look for mineral lenses in acetate frames. Mineral lenses are the clearest and most scratch resistant, and acetate frames can be adjusted and often repaired over time. And then there’s the care side of things. Keep them in a case, avoid leaving them in a hot car, clean them regularly… a little attention goes a long way. Treat them right and your grandkids will be fighting over them.