The Material Review
Issue 178: Jim Whittaker, Japanese Fashion Blogs, XTRATUF, Fishtail Parkas, Malibu Matchbooks, Landys, More Masters, Spotlight On: Vintage REI and Q&A w/ Jamie Ferguson.
Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.
Jim Whittaker, First American to Reach Everest’s Summit, Dies at 97
“As an executive with the outdoor-supply retailer REI and an experienced climber, he conquered Mount Everest in 1963, when fewer than 10 people were known to have done so.” [NYT]
The Secret World of Japanese Fashion Blogs
“Or: why you should think about clothes like Japan thinks about clothes.” [Big Pants Waste Precious Fabric]
How XTRATUF became the unofficial State Shoe of Alaska
[Proper]
The Fishtail Parka Edition
“On the Korean War, Mods, and The Real McCoy’s.” [WITI]
Malibu in Matchbooks: Clues to a Lost Coast
“A collection of matchbooks from Southern California maps a vanished mid-century commercial corridor, long displaced by fire and time.” [JSTOR Daily]
Meet Coolnvintage – the Land Rover evangelists
“For the most expertly restored Landys, find Ricardo Pessoa” [FT]
Meet the “Touch Grass” Guys
“A new style of dressing embraces earthy colors, soft silhouettes, and natural fibers.” [Add 2 Cart]
Why are the Masters’ concession prices always so low at Augusta National?
Masters flag autographs: Superstition, hierarchy and the unwritten rules of signing
A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.
TIMEX® IRONMAN® 8-Lap Limited Edition For Hodinkee
Khakis Tembea Book Tote
Soft Goods Classic Tee
London Falling: A Mysterious Death in a Gilded City and a Family’s Search for Truth
Vintage REI
Vintage Recreational Equipment Inc. Hat
REI CO-OP Medium Size Duffle/Bag, Gold Nylon, Leather Grab Handle, Padded Bottom
REI 50 Years Anniversary Red Hat Imperial Headware USA Made Strap Back 1988
Vintage 90’s REI Green Mini Compact Backpack Daypack
REI VTG 70s Goose Down Puffer Jacket Men’s S Blue Half Zip Pullover Made In USA\
Vintage REI Heavyweight Blue Shirt Jacket Shacket Made in USA Size Large
Vintage REI Zip Up Shirt
Vintage 70s REI CO OP Tear Drop Backpack Pack Made in USA Blue Seattle RARE
Jamie Ferguson
Jamie has spent years photographing classic menswear, moving between Pitti Uomo, tailoring houses, and the workshops where the clothes are actually made. His eye is sharp but never precious, a quality that carries over to his newsletter That Dusty Heat. We caught up with Jamie to talk about a much slept on Parisian brand, the camera setup he’s simplified over the years, and a few pieces that have earned a permanent place in his wardrobe.
You spend time at Pitti, inside workrooms and showrooms most people never see. Where do you actually discover new brands, and what tells you something is worth paying attention to?
Oddly it seems to be Instagram where I’ll come across most new brands these days. There’s obviously only so much that can be shown on there, but if a brand’s visual aesthetic looks good and that’s coupled with an interesting product, that’s usually a great jumping off point for me.
Often those instincts will be confirmed by a few industry friends who also think said brand is ‘cool’, coupled with learning a little more about where the majority of their collection is made and we’re of to the races. Not that provenance necessarily means anything these days but it certainly will give you a little insight into why something looks the way it does or why it’s the price it is.
That’s certainly how I came across brands like Atlantic Coastal Supplies, Horatio, Rubato, and De Bonne Facture, to name a few.
What’s a brand you almost hesitate to mention because you’d rather it stay a little under the radar?
Haha! I’ve just mentioned them actually but more people need to know about De Bonne Facture. They’re a superb brand out of Paris, designed by Déborah Sitbon Neuberg. Incredible silhouettes on the trousers and coats, really interesting colour palette’s each season and the fit of each garment is spot on.
We understand you have drastically minimized your photo gear? What’s your current camera set up?
I have indeed. I’ve recently upgraded my kit and went mirrorless with the Canon R5. I then condensed all my Prime’s and Zooms into one lens, the Canon RF 28-70mm 2.0. I do miss a little bit of the additional zoom I had on my 70-200 2.8 but it’s not such a big deal especially when you consider that I’m no longer having to swap between 3 lenses, which I was often doing pre upgrade.
For friends and family, I also carry a little Fujifilm X-Pro 2. Working professionally as a photographer means I hate having to lug around the ‘big guns’ when I’m spending time with my kids and the Fuji is the perfect solution. I slap on a 35mm equivalent and I’m good to go.
Over the years you’ve handled a lot of great clothing through shoots and editorial work. What’s something that quietly made its way into your own wardrobe and never left?
A quiet little 5 finger purloining? Haha! Never! Certainly gather a lot of inspiration from a lot of the brands I shoot with though. Let’s see…
Over the years I’ve shot a lot with Simon Crompton of Permanent Style and quite a number of the items he produces for his PS Shop are phenomenal. They work with a lot of the best makers in and around the UK and Europe so you know there will be a decent provenance on any of their items.
I’d have to single out the cotton crew neck sweaters that they do in collaboration with Speciale and hand-framed in Wales by Corgi . I’ve got the navy and the kind of putty colour. And the Donegal Overcoat made via Private White with cloth woven in Ireland holds a pretty special place in my heart.
When you travel for a shoot, what are the non-camera things you always pack?
The non-camera things I’m usually packing are almost always clothing related as when I travel for shoots, often to London or NY, I’ll try and organise dinners and/or drinks with friends and that tends to be when I get a chance to dress up a lil’ bit fancy.
That means one of my The Anthology jackets or suits and always my black cordovan Alden penny loafers.
Non-clothing wise though I’ve always got a Moleskine for notes and ideas alongside my Ystudio brass pen which I’ve had for nearly 15 years.
What’s your relationship with watches ? Do you tend to stick with one or rotate through a few? And is there anything you’ve got your eye on right now that you haven’t pulled the trigger on yet?
I’ve got a fairly healthy relationship with watches but nothing particularly crazy. I’m a big fan of Omega.
Mine started back in 2017 when my first son was born. I always loved the idea of passing down a watch and I probably used this as a bit of an excuse! I bought a Omega WWW Dirty Dozen watch after reading an article about them in Hodinkee.
That was followed by a Constellation when my second son was born in 2021, a hand me down Cyma from my father which was his father and one of the Serica 5303 dive watches. That’s the stable and I find it pretty easy to rotate through all of them.
In terms of grail? There’s a couple. I feel fairly basic saying this but a vintage Universal Geneve Polerouter would be a nice and was weirdly drawn to an Omega Speedmaster MK40 recently but failed to pull the trigger on. I liked the bold colours and the fact it was not your normal ‘run of the mill’ Speedy. If those exist.
Michael!! Thank you for the link! 🔗🫱🏻🫲🏽