Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.
The Best Workout Gear Is a Cotton Tee
“Fancy synthetic workout gear might promise to wick away your sweat, but there’s a more comfortable and less stinky alternative sitting in your drawer: Your favorite old cotton T-shirt.” [GQ]
The Rise of the Unstoppable American Tourist
“A supercharged U.S. economy has helped transform a nation of homebodies into zealous international travelers; ‘Travel isn’t optional’” [WSJ]
25 of the Best Vintage Shops in America
“25 shops that offer major ROI.” [Huckberry]
Your Clothes Deserve a Maintenance Schedule
“And for waxed jackets, New England Reproofers can help.” [Wardrobe]
Jay Maisel, Photographer of Miles Davis and Much More, Dies at 95
“His moody portrait became the album cover for “Kind of Blue.” Mr. Maisel lived and worked in an old bank that he bought for $102,000 and sold for $55 million.” [NYT]
Why is my mustard spicier than normal? An investigation into a global Dijon mystery
“The search for an answer took us to a mustard dynasty in France, a Hamilton mustard mill and Palliser’s Triangle.” [Toronto Star]
A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.
Crockett & Jones Vail
Gitman Vintage Indigo Silk Denim
Engineered Garments Cruiser Jacket - Olive Cotton Moleskin
Late Nine 5-Pocket Cords Olive
American Trench Donegal Fleck Sport Coat
WHR 6-Panel Side Vent Hat (Moss)
Josh York
Josh York has been making clothes in his hometown of Detroit through his company Soft Goods for the past nine years. He clearly cares about the city, and we admire his commitment to building a business that employs people there and contributes to its comeback. After years spent mostly producing for other labels, he's been growing Soft Goods' own line, so we were excited to talk with him about the brand, how making clothes has changed the way he shops, and a few things he's been enjoying lately.
Why launch a clothing manufacturing business in Detroit? Does the city have a history of making apparel?
Detroit does have a surprisingly real history here — in the 1920s there was a knitting mill on the same block as our factory, and Carhartt started making workwear here even decades before that. Other parts of the country have a more defined history in textiles, but Detroit has a rich history in manufacturing, which is the bigger thread through time to what we’re doing.
I wanted to build Soft Goods in Detroit because I grew up here and my family is all still here. I was inspired by the city’s renaissance after the 2009 bankruptcy; seeing great people build businesses that were making a real impact on the comeback of this amazing city. I was already passionate about making t-shirts and figuring out how to sew garments, so moving back to my hometown to be part of that momentum and hiring Detroiters to make clothes with me felt like the right opportunity.
Is there a cut and sew garment you love that’s the basis for what you’re making at Soft Goods?
The t-shirt. I’ve been fascinated by them since elementary school when I saw my older cousin’s band play and they had a merch booth of tees they airbrushed in their garage. They had the band name, “Creepy Peter” in slime letters across and I wore that until it fell apart. Ever since, I’ve been drawn to how t-shirts transcend society — everybody wears them, no matter who they are or where they’re from, and each one carries a story. I still have t-shirts from different chapters of my life, band shirts, job shirts, family reunions, you name it. Many are hanging on to bare threads or don’t fit anymore, yet I can’t get rid of them because of the sentimental value they hold. That fascination is what led me to try to make the perfect one, not with a graphic, but with amazing fabric and fit that will last forever.
When I started Soft Goods, I made a t-shirt every single day until I perfected it months later. Nine years later, it’s still the same tee, and Soft Goods will now make almost 10,000 t-shirts this year, among the other styles we’ve added to the line.
What has making clothes changed about the way you think about buying things?
I was struck early on by how long it actually takes to make even a simple t-shirt — ten to fifteen minutes of labor per shirt. Way longer than the 30 seconds it was taking me to screen print one. Yet you can still buy some tees for $3. That gap taught me to appreciate craft and the time it takes to make something well and it’s changed how I shop in general. I didn’t pay myself for the first 3-4 years of being in business, so I didn’t have much money, but rather than just buying something cheap that would fulfill my needs right there and then, I started to recalculate the numbers in my head. I would rather invest in something well made that will give me utility and joy long into the future vs just going for instant gratification. I became proud of the things I owned, rather than just using them to look a part or fill a need temporarily. Especially knowing that every dollar I spent came from how hard I worked every day sewing t-shirts, each one was all the sudden worth a lot more!
What’s the best thing you’ve bought this year that you can’t stop recommending?
I technically didn’t buy them, but the Brushtail Socks from William Ellery. In January I was grabbing a beer in Paris with Trevor and he was saying “A good pair of socks can change your life” and I thought he was being dramatic. Well let me tell you: These things have changed my life. They are made with a blend of Possum and Merino wool and they feel so different than any other wools sock I have. They almost feel like cashmere, but they seem to wear in way better than cashmere, in that they last a lot longer. They don’t smell either. I can wear them a few days in a row and they are incredible for traveling light. They are so warm and breathable and are life changing socks. They are expensive for a sock, but so worth the cost based on the joy you experience wearing them over and over.
What’s happening at Soft Goods? What are some of the new things that are coming soon?
Soft Goods is in the middle of a big pivot. For the first 8 years the company operated as a private-label first manufacturer, and we only relaunched as a consumer-facing brand a year ago. Until last year, our website acted as a portfolio, you couldn’t really buy much from us directly. In the past year, Soft Goods went to our first-ever trade show in January, and this fall our branded products will be carried in fifteen stores across the globe, from Scotland to South Korea to Japan to the U.S. The brand is also pushing hard online, releasing our first full collection ever this year. On the product side: our bread and butter tees are being joined by cotton sweaters, beanies, fleece, and we are dipping our toes into Alpaca socks and a wool sherpa line, which has me very excited. A vest and zip-up jacket made with 100% American Grown wool, 100% cotton backing, made with cotton thread, cotton labels, and even cotton zipper tape. No synthetics anywhere. I don’t believe you can find a synthetic-free and American-made product like this on the market, and I’m super excited to be the brand bringing them with the world and to round our Soft Goods knitwear collection.
What’s a brand or company you think deserves a much bigger audience?
Leon Footwear. I wore New Balance 574’s almost exclusively for a number of years and was telling my wife last summer that I needed to find a slightly more stylish leather shoe to upgrade my overall style. Then I met Gavin and Casey last fall and they sent me their Maverick shoe and it quickly became my go-to. I wear them probably 5 days a week and will be adding more colors into my life soon.
These guys are operating at a high level; great product, content and on top of that they are genuinely good people building a business the right way. It’s only a matter of time before they pop off in a big way, and I’m excited to watch it happen and say I told you so.
What’s something you’ve become obsessed with recently that has nothing to do with clothing?
I’ve really gotten back into reading this year. My wife and I will occasionally watch a show before bed, but we welcomed a new baby this year, so the tv has been permanently off (until football and hockey seasons start back up this fall). In my spare time on weekends and before bed every night, I’ve been diving deep into books. It’s such a great way to take a break from screens and unwind by immersing myself into a story. I know reading is no new secret, but it’s kind of become a rekindled hobby of mine. I used to be really into WWII books, but lately have been enjoying reading memoirs from people my age. It’s so fascinating to learn about other people’s experiences in life from other parts of the world. I read about a guy my age who walked from El Salvador to America when he was 10. A woman my age in rural China that left her family to work 80 hours a week in a shoe factory. The perspective I’ve gained through these stories has made me a more grateful person and likely a better business owner and father.
Links
Industry Standard Tools — Crowd-sourced list of industry standards.
W. David Marx: Fashion Is Bigger Than Ever — But Worse at Rewarding Invention
How Japan Made American Denim Its Own—and Built a Cult Following