Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

Why Is Everyone Wearing Camouflage?

“Realtree and Mossy Oak turned patterns designed for the woods into coveted streetwear and luxury fashion.” [Bloomberg*]

The Bench as a Made Object.

“On the difference between a bench that is bought and a bench that is made, with Donald Judd as the court of appeal” [The Idle Gazette]

The 25 Objects That Explain America

[NYT*]

Read more

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

Meet Your Favorite Menswear Expert’s Favorite Menswear Experts

“The Churchwell brothers are accomplished doctors, not TikTokers. But for a certain type of style fan, they’re also a perfect example of blending traditional tailoring know-how with just the right amount of self-expression.” [Esquire]

Meet the Parisian Designer Making Clothes Out of 200-Year-Old Fabric

“Oliver Church’s handmade shirts and jackets have earned him the respect of menswear fanatics around the world.” [GQ]

The Most Powerful Men in America Are Eating Only Steak and Sauerkraut. Could I?

“I ate like Robert F. Kennedy Jr. for a week. The results were fascinating.” [NYT*]

Read more

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

Accept Your Fate. Don’t Wear Shorts to the Office.

[NYT*]

The Andouillette Does Not Travel

“Misadventures with a sausage.” [Harry Sword]

When Did Sports Get So Loud?

“Athletes have become influencers. In-game production has become “storytelling.” And everything has gotten very, very stimulating.” [The Atlantic]

Read more

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

Same Shoe, Different Factory

“Only two major running brands still own their factories. The rest rent from the same pool of contractors. Many do so with no commitment past the current order.”

[Worse on Purpose]

Meet Me in the Notes App

“For better or worse, my notes app is the piece of technology closest to looking like the inside of my brain: a bit chaotic, annoyingly detail-oriented, and perhaps perpetually nostalgic.” [Time]

Read more

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

23 THINGS IT’S OK TO STEAL FROM A HOTEL (and a definitive list of stuff you should leave in the room).

“Nick Jones’ new St. Clement hotel has a WHOLE CUPBOARD FULL of complimentary booty. But what about the bath robe or the hand-held steamer? Here’s a guide to what you can and can’t take home with you.” [Male on Sunday]

The ordinary sublime of the American diner

Pecan pie, Pecan pie, Pecan pie” [The Common Reader]

Read more

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

Why Does This Jacket Cost $770? Because It Made Me a New Man.

“Lots of men are geeking out over very expensive clothes — and I became one of them.” [NYT*]

A Locomotive Named Big Boy Is Making Grown Men Cry

“The world’s largest operating steam locomotive is on its first coast-to-coast tour; ‘I was choked up’” [WSJ*]

How Did This Mysterious Shoe Brand Come To Define Good Footwear?

[Highsnobiety]

The makers of the little red government box

“Who are the elusive craftsmen behind one of Britain’s most prized possessions, shared by monarchs, prime ministers and private collectors?” [FT*]

The Anti-Sunscreen Movement Is Coming for You

“Sunscreen—one of the only products scientifically proven to reduce the risk of skin cancer—is in the middle of a PR crisis, with skeptics claiming it’s hazardous to your health. Experts dismiss the claims as misinformation, but has the damage already been done? MH investigates.” [Mens Health]

Is “Dressing The Man” Still Worth Reading?

[Wardrobe]

A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.

The Anthology Sueded Linen Suit Jacket - Ink Blue

Drake’s Hiking Jacket

Scarpa Rove Rock S GTX

School of Thought Side Pant in Khaki

Left Field NYC Crazy Shirt

From the Feed

IG: mercershirtmakers

IG: fishnthrift

IG: Canon - 093 Tennis Cycle I (Wimbledon, Fonika vs. Auger-Aliassime)

Gary Indjian and Greg Okawachi of Brother Brother

Gary Indjian and Greg Okawachi are the men behind Brother Brother, a Los Angeles shop with a great eye for well-made things and an expanding in-house line of their own. We admire the thoughtful way they’ve built the business and wanted to hear more about how they think, so we caught up to talk about the labels they’re most excited about, the products they’re still making the case for, and what they’ve been into lately outside of clothing.

What’s your overall vision for Brother Brother? What made you want to start this shop?

GO: From the first day we opened our door, the intention was to provide a unique assortment of products in a familiar and familial environment. It was always about prioritizing the interaction over the transaction. Both of us had been working in men’s fashion at different capacities and we both felt like our ideas and vision were better applied to a brand or business we could call our own.

GI: For me it always came back to wanting a space that felt like an extension of how we actually dress and think about goods, not an ecosystem for whatever was trending. Greg and I had spent enough time inside of this industry to know what we did and did not want to repeat. Starting our own thing meant we could be patient about who we worked with and grow with our customers instead of just moving products. From day 1 and now 7 years later - it’s still a lifestyle shop and place to hang.

Pick one brand that’s on the racks today. Where did you first discover it, and what convinced you it belonged at Brother Brother?

GO: Unlikely Dry Goods is the brainchild of Nakada Shinsuke. He has been a north star for me for quite some time, and when the opportunity came to work together it was really a no brainer. The product is perfectly considered and is the type of stuff I want to wear all the time. That’s sort of the litmus test when it comes to picking out goods for the store.

GI: Arpenteur was one of those brands I kept circling back to years before we ever placed an order. There’s something about how they hold onto traditional French workwear silhouettes without ever feeling costume-y - the cut is honest, the fabrics are considered, and none of it is shouting for attention. It rewards the customer who actually stops and looks closely, which is the whole point of how we want people to shop.

What’s something your customers have taught you that changed the way you buy for the shop?

GO: I think we’re incredibly blessed to have customers who invest and trust our eye for certain goods and brands. Something that other shops often rely on is the cache or momentum brands and products have rather than their own point of view. Our customer has reinforced the notion that if you can build a relationship with them around great customer service, they will trust your taste and try things they might not find anywhere else.

GI: That the story behind a piece matters as much as the piece itself. I’d sometimes buy something purely because it was well made and assume that would be enough. What I learned is our customers want to have a conversation around brands, references, fabric, etc - it’s special to see our customer come in with knowledge baked into their shopping habits.

What’s a product in the shop you’re still evangelizing, the one that needs a conversation before it clicks? What do people usually miss?

GO: Kind of a crazy take, but I think our customer is sleeping on Margaret Howell. It is the oldest brand that we stock (she’s been making clothes at an incredibly high level for 50+ years) but it’s relatively quiet. I think there are newer brands coming out of the UK that are very much inspired by her offering, but few do it at the same level. Once you walk a customer through some of the construction details or the fabrications, they begin to look at clothes and brands through a different lens.

GI: Carry goods, specifically Amiacalva and Klättermusen. It’s a funny category because nobody actually needs another bag - everyone’s got one that works fine. But when you find the right one, you want it bad, and that’s the conversation I love having. I love making people do a wear test around the shop carrying different totes.

How do you know when an idea should become a Brother Brother product instead of simply something you admire from another brand?

GO: I think Gary and I share this crazy enthusiasm for product and recognize how important it is to respect and understand what ultimately adds value to our customers. Because we also produce our own collection, there are times when we’d rather not attempt to enter a certain category or lane for the sake of doing it, and just let the specialists of that product be the authorities on it. From a design standpoint, there are certain things our customer might never care for and that’s completely fine. I think knowing who you are and being exceptional at what you do is much easier than chasing a trend or adopting a story that isn’t true to you.

GI: ^^^^

What’s the best thing either of you has bought recently that wasn’t inventory for the shop?

GO: On my last trip to Tokyo I bought a new pair of sunglasses. I’m in the habit of buying the same style of sunglasses whether vintage or new. This time I stepped away from my usual shape and settled on this collaborative pair from Eyevan & Kolor. I love them and for how much time I spend in the car, my eyes do too.

GI: I got obsessed with this pen that was completely sold out online - which, naturally, made me want it more than anything. It’s the uni-ball ZENTO Signature Model. Looks great, writes even better, and somehow the one that’s currently sticking out from the vast sea of pens in my bag as the go-to.

What’s the last thing you became genuinely obsessed with that had nothing to do with clothes?

GO: My 6mo daughter. She has put so much into perspective for me haha, and while I still love thinking about clothes and product– I’m so stoked that all of my hobbies and interests have become consumed by being a dad.

GI: I’m on a “reading books about Los Angeles” tear right now. I was born and raised here, but I’m obsessed with seeing our beautiful city through the perspectives of different authors at different times. I’m just getting started on The Library Book by Susan Orlean, and I recently wrapped a few by Jack Smith, whose columns are basically a time capsule of the city.

Looking around the shop today, what’s something that probably wouldn’t have made it onto the racks three years ago? What’s changed in your eye?

GO: We started carrying the brand H-O-R-S-E, which is just a little over a year old. It’s a more femme leaning unisex line that executes athletic apparel in natural fabrics. Sue, their founder, has a great eye for visuals and a refreshing take on clothing. It has taken some time, but I think I’ve become more confident in supporting our growing female audience. Especially when you can do so with rad brands that are doing great work.

GI: I think as the shop has grown, the customer who’s been with us from the early days has grown right along with us - what Greg and I are obsessed with shifts season to season, and they’ve been open to coming on that ride. We have some newness coming into the shop over the next few seasons that we’re both really excited about, and we can’t wait to share it with our customers.

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

The Wythe and Wherefores

“How an Americana brand grounded in craftsmanship and a distinctly Western sensibility came to be” [Air Mail*]

Ode to the convertible

“Sales are plummeting, but there’s still nothing sexier than an open-top adventure” [FT*]

Read more

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

Should You Recline Your Airplane Seat?

“Investigating the central dilemma of our time.” [New Yorker*]

Hickory Golf Shop: a Wodehousian idyll in Tokyo’s Harajuku

“Everything you need to play the vintage version of the sport” [FT]

and why japanses companies do so many different things

Read more

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

Western Mountaineering: Staying Small, Sewing Every Stitch Since 1970

[Garage Grown Gear]

A History of Canada in 24 Objects

“Bagged milk, Cheezies, crokinole, BlackBerry: inside one artist’s project to depict Canadian identity” [Maclean’s]

Read more

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

The Sweet Life of Tom Carvel

“How a Greek immigrant with big dreams grew a faulty ice-cream cart into an American franchise behemoth that would serve Flying Saucers and Fudgie the Whales to many generations to come” [Air Mail]

In Praise of a Dumb House

“Tech has been encroaching on the family domicile for years—but actor, writer, and satirist Jill Kargman is all in on analog.” [Wired]

One of the World’s Best Menswear Stores Is In... Texas?

[Highsnobiety]

I Survived a Cold Plunge and All I Got Was Everything I Ever Wanted

“I resisted the trend until I couldn’t any longer.” [NYT]

Finding the art in the beautiful game

“Rader is the person behind the wildly popular Art But Make It Sports social media accounts, where he uses photographs and screengrabs of pivotal or dynamic moments in sports and juxtaposes them against canonical paintings or statues.” [CNN]

How the Birkenstock Boston Became an Unlikely Icon

“The game-changing clog turns 50 this year. This is its story.” [Esquire]

Almost $1 Billion Later, the US Still Can’t Make a Medical Glove

“The failure of a program to produce 100% American nitrile gloves shows the difficulty of reviving US manufacturing” [Bloomberg*]

A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.

Manresa Roebuck Shirt

Object From Nothing 10 STRAND SPLICED & WOVEN BELT

Balmuda x Jony Ive Sailing Lantern

Norda 055 Trail Running Shoe

Noah Angus

R.M.Williams x Campbell’s of Beauly

Highlander Boot

Eric Wind

Eric Wind is the founder of Wind Vintage and one of the most respected names in vintage watches. Fresh off the release of his fifth collaboration with Seiko and Rowing Blazers, we spoke with Eric about what the auction world taught him about collectors, how the internet reshaped vintage watch collecting, the references he still thinks are undervalued, and why Patek Philippe pocket watches can be surprisingly difficult to sell.

You spent years at Christie’s before starting your own business. What’s something about buying and selling vintage watches that you only understood after seeing the auction world from the inside?

It is amazing how many people, even spending seven and even eight figures on a watch, don’t really understand the details about them. Many dealers and auction houses try to jam watches down the throats of their clients until they get sick and stop buying, but I prefer to educate them and ultimately it makes a lifetime collector. Too many big collectors burn out quickly due to being burned or not really understanding the watches they were purchasing.

The Rowing Blazers x Seiko collaboration felt more considered than the average logo-on-a-dial partnership. What made that project worth saying yes to?

It’s been a wonderful five years working with Seiko. We didn’t know what to expect when we did our first launch back in summer 2021, but I know a lot more about designing great watches and it has been a joy to see the collaboration develop and thrive.

When you wrote Vintage Watches: The Modern Guide, what was the biggest misconception about collecting that you wanted to correct?

We are so excited the book is launching on November 17! We encourage people to pre-order it now to ensure they have a copy and show support. My colleague Charlie Dunne have written the book as a love letter to vintage watches and collecting. We were thrilled to work with James Fisk who took all the amazing photographs of so many beautiful vintage watches. Our goal was to make a book compelling enough that owners will want to open it more than one time. Both Charlie and I have spent $100+ on some watch books that we flipped through for 10 minutes and then never had any interest in cracking the cover again.

What has the internet actually done to vintage watch collecting?

I think it has been great in terms of expanding the knowledge of watches, particularly in terms of what is correct and original condition. I certainly would not be in the world of watches except for stumbling on HODINKEE in its earliest days back in 2008 when I was still in college at Georgetown. Social media, such as Instagram, has taken watch collecting to a lot more people and made more people interested in vintage watches. It has been a joy to see so many millions of people begin to appreciate and even love vintage watches!

You see a lot of collections. Is there a tell that someone has genuinely developed taste, as opposed to simply buying expensive watches?

I think it is often reflected in the owner not just showing off six- and seven-figure watches, but showing some great less expensive watches that he or she has collected and loves. If someone only shows you a collection of “bangers” that are all insane watches, then it might be that the collector is more interested in values than the actual watches themselves and what makes them cool.

What’s one vintage watch that still feels underappreciated, and what do collectors tend to overlook about it?

I think vintage Heuer watches really offer an incredible array of excellent watches and they are often under $10,000. We have seen growing interest in them, which is gratifying. Of course, Charlie Dunne and I also love vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre watches and also vintage Vulcain Cricket alarm watches.

What’s the last watch that came across your desk that made you stop for a minute before handing it back? What was special about it?

I love great Patek Philippe pocket watches. The craftsmanship and quality is next level, and they are often preserved in spectacular condition. Collectors don’t seem to appreciate how awesome they are as they are not that easy to sell, even when priced under $10,000.

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

The Pants That Fade on Purpose: A Brief History of Nantucket Reds

“How a pair of fading pink pants became the unofficial uniform of East Coast privilege and the rare menswear icon that improves through neglect.” [Observer]

Erling Haaland Plays Like a Viking and

“Norway’s hulking striker brought his country back to the World Cup for the first time in almost thirty years. How far can they go?” [New Yorker*]

he also has quite the Birkin collection

Read more

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

The Anti-Amazon

“Costco’s model and the future of retail” [Phenomenal World]

The anxiety of the perfect loaf: the illusion of culinary precision

“The kitchen is a biological environment. Cooking is a deeply personal experience, and culinary precision is no replacement for intuition” [Josh Izaac]

I Went to America and All I Got Was This Shirt

“American ‘taste’ report” [Totally Recommend]

Read more

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

The Rise, Fall, and (Maybe) Return of American Denim

“Selvedge denim manufacturing nearly went extinct in the U.S. Here’s how to bring it back.”

[Esquire]

Before Private Jets Were the Norm, Athletes Were Stuck in Middle Seats Just Like Us

“Once upon a time, pro athletes endured the same high-altitude agonies as everyone else. Then teams discovered the benefits of charters, owners upgraded and a new era took flight.” [SI]

Where Have All the Greek Diners Gone?

“A once common sight in New York City, they have become an endangered species” [Air Mail]

Read more

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

The World Cup In Arlington Is Imperfectly Perfect

“Now that we’ve been there, we can say it: an Americanized World Cup is pretty weird. But it’s still the World Cup. And that makes it pretty great.” [D Magazine]

How La Marzocco Perfected the Espresso Machine

“Beloved by coffee enthusiasts, the century-old brand has built a philosophy based on timeless design, reliability, and watching baristas at work.” [TOTEI]

Hermès Wants to Win Over Watch Obsessives With Whimsy

“The French brand is a bit of an underdog in the field of horology. It’s working to change that.” [WSJ*]

The Best Magazine Articles About Fashion Ever Written (According to Me)

“This one’s a doozy” [freak palace]

Wirecutter Headlines During the Revolutionary War

“Why We Love This Wrought Iron Spit for Cooking Mutton Over a Hearth”

[McSweeney’s]

A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.

Campbell’s of Beauly Brushed Shetland Stripe Rugby

Sentinel X50 Kermit Chair - Olive (PRE-ORDER)

B.O.T.O River Lace

Big Rock Candy Mountaineering Candy Cords

Vintage Watches: The Modern Guide

SPC/LST Solstice_03S

Kapital Dixie Hickoree Cactus Coverall Mauve

From the Feed

The coffee shop where 162 regulars have their own mug (1977)

The Final Interview: Nigel Cabourn’s Life Story in His Words

Louis Cheslaw

Louis Cheslaw is a menswear writer whose work has appeared in GQ, the Financial Times, The New York Times, and Why is this Interesting? We’ve enjoyed his work for years, so we were excited to see him launch Wardrobe. We caught up to talk about the new newsletter, the London vintage shops he keeps going back to, and why a conversation in Stockholm made him a convert to Astier de Villatte incense.

What do you think of the current Substack / TikTok / YouTube era of menswear?

I mostly find the enthusiasm and energy sweet, and even positive when it means that independent designers with little-to-no marketing budgets get more attention. That being said, a lot of these accounts focus on a box-ticking approach to getting dressed—Four Pants You Need This Summer, say.

In my experience, that’s the fastest way to end up with a wardrobe that ultimately means nothing to you. The clothes I wear and like most are the ones that remind me of the place that I found them, or the person I was with the day I got them. Better still, they inexplicably just work on me, in ways other options didn’t. I don’t want people to miss out on those adventures because they followed a stranger’s rules.

You’re starting a new project. What is it, and why now?

It’s called Wardrobe, it comes out twice a week, and it’s really a way to lean further into those feelings I just shared. As I said in my launch letter, there’s a difference between impulsively shopping and truly building a wardrobe. The newsletter exists to help myself and others migrate from the former approach to the latter.

In practice, that means interviewing great dressers in detail (and often in their own homes) to understand how they think about what they wear, and where they found their best gets. It also means going to designer’s studios to learn the nuances within different fabrics and cuts, and to specialist retailers—like the shop in Paris that only sells fine socks—to extract some of the wisdom they’ve gained about their category.

We’ve done all of this and a little more so far, and it’s been really enjoyable. It’s also not my first rodeo: I became familiar with Substack as the Men’s editor of Magasin for the past two years, and working with Laura was an incredible education in how to stay consistent.

When you’re shopping for yourself, where do you actually go? Specific shops, sites, or places you find yourself returning to.

The best deals, bar none, are found second-hand. Living in London, I like Hornets in Kensington for classic dress shirts (Turnbull & Asser here will set you back no more than £30), and Twos in Hackney for slightly more interesting designer vintage. Still, I of course buy new from the brands I love. Right now, that’s mostly Lady White Co., Batoner, Mfpen, Henry’s. Crockett & Jones for serious shoes. And Kaptain Sunshine, MAN-TLE, and Margaret Howell if I’m being recklessly nice to myself.

Beyond the product itself, what makes a brand genuinely worth paying attention to? Who do you think is getting that right right now?

The product itself really is the thing–fabric, construction, and fit matter so much more than any witty campaigns or celebrity co-sign. That said, I’m always moved when a designer would clearly be making clothes, even if just for themselves. That’s what separates someone who started a brand after finishing business school, and someone who had to because it poured out of them. Examples there include Cecile Tulkens, Conkers, Gabriela Coll, Salon C. Lundman.

What are a few under-the-radar brands you’ve come across recently, in the UK or elsewhere, that more people should know about?

Many of the ones above, but I’m hoping to get to the bottom of the enigmatic Cease soon. And Horses is the one brand playing hardball with me this Paris, so I’ll report back once I’ve learned more / anything.

What’s something you’ve bought recently that you’re especially happy with?

When I flew to Stockholm to interview Christoffer Lundman, he told me he loved Astier de Villatte incense because it comes in a box of 200, so you can burn the sticks with reckless abandon. I’d previously dismissed the brand as Instagram-bait, but after picking up a couple of the boxes, I’m a total convert.

Is there anything you’ve got your eye on right now but haven’t yet acquired?

A John Smedley long-sleeved Sea Island polo shirt. Ideally I would end up a man who only wears these—I’ve met a few, they seem very content.

Outside of clothes, what are you most particular about, and what would you recommend?

I like reliable pens. I discovered Zebra Sarasa, with its perfect Blue-Black ink option, in Japan, and continue to stock up when I can. I also appreciate a nice plate—this is the nicest cereal / pasta bowl I’ve ever used.

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

Is the Windsong the sailboat of the future?

“Introducing ‘the coolest wooden boat ever built’. Possibly” [FT*]

Calvin and Hobbes and the Price of Integrity

“How Bill Watterson Stuck to His Guns — and Vanished” [The Republic of Letters]

Why the Cookbook Endures

“Not too long ago, the physical cookbook seemed to be heading toward the same fate as the compact disc. What happened was just the opposite.” [Taste]

Read more

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

“The Middle is Very Seductive”: Inside Menswear’s Value Shift

[Vogue Business*]

The 40 Most Rage-Inducing Problems in Tech

“The bugs, broken apps, and nightmare customer-service bots we can’t escape, presented as a blessed and sacred addendum to Pope Leo XIV’s new encyclical on AI” [The Ringer]

Rolex Fans Hope for Another ‘Pepsi’ Revival

“The blue and red variation of the GMT-Master II was removed from the brand catalog, but it wasn’t the first time.” [NYT]

“You Killed the Car”

“A Ferrari and a distinctive Highland Park home combined for an iconic scene in Ferris Bueller’s Day Off. This adapted excerpt from a new book details how it all went (crashing) down.” [Chicago]

The Whimsy and Heartbreak of America’s Garage Sales

“For $100, I bought bric-a-brac that explains a nation.” [The Atlantic]

A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.

Frizmworks Melange Check Work Shirt

Paraboot Barth

Sunspel Lightweight Cotton Poplin Blazer

Portuguese Flannel Punta camp collar shirt

Harold Denim Hang Short

Viberg x David Coggins

The Outsider IV

Post General

Quick-Dry Hoodie Towel

The Lunch Cooler Tote

Carry-On Backpack

DOUBLEWALL FLIP-TOP BOTTLE 300ml

The Shopping Basket Cooler Tote

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

How Nigel Cabourn Mastered Modern Workwear

“The late British designer built a global following through decades of meticulous collections inspired by vintage work garb and military gear, but nobody wore Nigel Cabourn better than the man himself.” [GQ]

The Last Days of Donohue’s

“Saying ‘goodbye’ to a New York icon from a different era.” [The Old Ghosts]

The Boeing 747 Begins Its Final Descent

“The jet was perhaps the pinnacle of American engineering excellence. Its retirement signals an end to an era of American culture—and ambition.” [The Atlantic]

The Inside Story of the Athens Music Scene

“How did the college football town spawn the B-52s, R.E.M., and Widespread Panic, to name just a few? The maestros and misfits who led Athens’s rise to one of the world’s most influential and improbable music towns tell all” [Garden & Gun]

Ian’s Shoelace Site Is Still The Best Site For Tying Your Shoes

“Ian’s Shoelace Site has been teaching people to tie their shoes for more than two decades. His knots are wonderful. But it is vulnerable to the forces tearing the internet apart.” [aftermath]

Leave It to Beaver

“Everything is bigger at Buc-ee’s” [The Baffler]

A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.

imogene + willie hencye natural indigo

SPELLBOUND LIGHT FATIGUE SHIRT

Record Culture Magazine Issue 11

Japanese Kitchen Scissors

Brother Brother Ripstop Shorts

Henry Fisher and Josh Allen of Hank’s Americana

Henry Fisher and Josh Allen are the minds behind Hank’s Americana, a New York-based print zine that has sold out all six of its issues. While clothing is often the way in, topics range from music and books to skateboarding, art, and plenty of other worthwhile rabbit holes. That’s part of why we enjoy it. Fisher and Allen have a refreshing perspective on style, treating it as a byproduct of curiosity and experience rather than an end in itself. We caught up to talk about nostalgia, Bob Weir, old issues of High Times, and what else they’ve been into lately.

Before Hank’s Americana existed, how did each of you end up becoming the kind of people who notice and care about these things?

HF: I’ve always been interested in clothes and culture, but as I got older and learned more about the world, I realized the two are inextricably linked. I distinctly remember being handed a September Issue of Vogue when I was in grade school and being encouraged to form an opinion by my mom. That’s always stuck with me. I’m fortunate to have that sort of foundation to care about this stuff, but it loses its luster when you discover bands and painters you are obsessed with. Jeans and shirts could never blow my mind the same way.

JA: I grew up obsessed with skating, but I never lived anywhere with much of a skate scene. Behold the Internet. An interest in skating grew into an interest in music, an interest in clothing, an interest in visual art, and an interest in tons of other things that at some point had to intersect with one another. Growing up, my only exposure to the fashion industry was peripheral exposure to haute couture and trendy “What’s hot and what’s not” discussions. I never cared about any of that so I assumed fashion wasn’t for me. It wasn’t until much later in my life that I realized I could not have been more wrong.

When did you realize Hank’s needed to exist physically instead of just online?

HF: When I realized there was a lack of fun style coverage for men in America in print compared to other countries. Japan has Popeye, Fudge, Brutus, etc., and France has L’Etiquette. The United States, or a few little freaks living here, have Hank’s Americana. I worked on my high school newspaper on the culture side and then as managing editor. Print media has always been an interest of mine.

JA: Hank’s was a print project before anything else. I was always around and Henry and I have talked at length about the magazine, its purpose, and its contents since its inception, but Henry started this project on his own and I came to the magazine as a creative partner later on. If you’re really trying to learn and explore your interests, at some point you will realize physical media has so much information you cannot readily find online. You can pay $5 to climb the paywall at whatever decades-old media institution, but you can also get a more rare and interesting perspective from the voices who couldn’t afford to build a large media apparatus.

Has your relationship with the project changed as more people have started paying attention to it?

HF: Growth is weird and we don’t care to create to spur it. In a world of optimization and squeezing out every last dollar, we like to be quiet and focus on what we think is exciting and worth chasing, big money be damned. We have full time jobs which affords us a freedom to get weird and chase what we actually love. Independence is something we have learned is our greatest strength, and it’s becoming increasingly important as we start shipping piles of zines around the globe. Happiness is a Hank’s Americana that still feels special and true to us, the guys making the project, first and foremost. If we are laughing and enjoying the process, we couldn’t care less about growth. It started as a twenty page project and a party with 144 Budweisers in a bucket, so we are really just playing with house money at this point.

JA: What he said.

Why do some old things still feel exciting while others just feel nostalgic?

HF: The best stuff has edge and real edge never dulls. When you have the world at your fingertips and it’s all readily accessible, there’s something so exciting about having to dig in and wade around in the weird. There are very few diamonds on Instagram, but the real world is littered with them. I’ve been collecting old High Times, for example — that shit is crazy and so fun. You can tell they didn’t give a rats ass what anyone thought, including the government. Most people today are the opposite — all they care about is what others think. When we are all looking over our shoulder at others, how can you search to define your own edge?

JA: Nostalgia is a yearning for the past. You have to fight the desire for regression and comfort and tread a new path. Referencing Henry’s answer, old High Times issues don’t trigger a yearning for the past because they did not make the 70’s and 80’s look fun for everyone; they existed counter to the mainstream culture, which is what makes them exciting. There are incredible images and thoughts in those magazines that you can take with you into the present day and build upon, rather than sit and mope about missing Larry Levan at Paradise Garage or the Grateful Dead with the full band intact.

Are there people whose style you find yourselves coming back to over and over again?

HF: Of course - so many. My dad, for sure. Gauthier Borsarello is about as chic as they come. Bob Weir in the 80s is also up there — the king of polo shirt and denim in my humble opinion. Iggy Pop — shirts are overrated for much of the year. Last but not least, Sid Mashburn. I started my career in the clothing business interning in their Houston store — working at Sid and watching my dad get dressed for work taught me the rules of menswear so I could grow up to love breaking them.

JA: Dylan Rieder was the first skater I noticed who had a clearly unique style. He had this ease, beauty, and simplicity in his skating that translated into his clothing–dark skinny jeans, sheer white tees and tank tops, slick leather jacket… but it was a style I never felt I could replicate for my body. The Quasi team has always had some really stylish riders on their team, specifically Gilbert Crockett and Bobby Dekeyzer. Of course the best style is authentic, and Stu Kirst has to have one of the most honest styles on the planet–no bullshit, just him with his Bastard t-shirt and decade-old des pair (his wife’s book store, which recently closed) hat flying down a 15-stair set and completely eating shit on his board. I’ve also definitely thought about what Henry would wear if he were looking at my closet, which has validated my inclinations to just freak it in an insane graphic tee or a really fried piece of clothing. In all seriousness, if I have a style north star, it’s Chris Gentile. I’ve always felt clothing is only, at most, half of someone’s style, with the other half rooted in how they operate in the world and carry themselves every day. Not only does Chris have impeccable fashion sense and an understanding of what’s really good in the world of clothing, but it’s impossible for me to look at him–a deeply talented visual artist working across various mediums, passionate shop owner supporting both contemporary fashion and New York surfing, family man in a city and industry that promotes individuality and self-centeredness, occasionally wicked DJ, nerd about everything, and incredibly humble and welcoming person, and say anyone has better style.

What’s something menswear people care deeply about that you’ve personally stopped caring about?

HF: Those guys on Substack telling everyone what to buy. It’s schilling and there’s nothing worse than schilling. You tried on 7 kinds of canvas sneakers? Sick, I tried on one and they look great. I don’t need someone to tell me how to shop or what to wear. It’s my livelihood to know about this bullshit.

JA: When I initially started hanging out with people who were deep into menswear, a lot of them looked like a mannequin. Of course, this is a product of knowing the rules and sticking to them steadfastly. It made me feel like menswear was more about following rules than breaking them. This is why, even if I don’t dress the same as him, Henry’s style is so inspirational to me. He has a deep understanding of the “rules” of menswear and a rich personality that can’t be expressed within the confines of the rules as they are understood by menswear enthusiasts. You can wear a hand-dyed t-shirt, cutoff khaki shorts, and Aurora Mary Janes and I’ll take you just as seriously, if not more, as if you were in a navy DB blazer, gray wool flannel trousers, and tassel loafers.

What are some things you’ve both come across lately that have made you genuinely excited?

HF: It’s not a new book, but Tom O’Neill’s CHAOS is required reading if you are fascinated by America. It draws lines and connects dots around the Manson Family Murders, the sordid history of the US Intelligence apparatus, and our nation’s inclination to deceive and impact society through backwards channels. It almost feels quaint in today’s world of open, wide-spread corruption. Dark rooms used to see these machinations, but today we have presidential approved crypto scams and oiled up meatheads wrestling in each others’ sweat on the white house lawn. The clown show leads the circus and we are all forced to stand in attendance. Some context will help you understand how and why we are where we are.

JA: Greg Sage’s (of Wipers fame) solo albums. Cooper Qua skated to “Soul’s Tongue” in the most recent Quasi video and I’ve had the full Straight Ahead album on repeat for the past few months. Dave Hickey was an incredible art critic whose essays I recently started reading, and even though I had never thought about art in the way he describes in his essays, I’ve found myself nodding along with his expert opinion (after plenty of re-reading and Webster’s Dictionary searches). Pilgrim produced their Albert Field Shirt in this incredible dobby weave that resembles ripstop and might become my go-to this summer. Henry and I recently saw Shadow Knell (side project of one of the dudes from Poison Ruin) live and I found it really moving. We also recently saw the Sissy Boys in full Revolutionary War regalia in Philadelphia, which was emotionally powerful in its own way. Also shoutout Fröthing Mad. The powers of Truck Liquor and Pocket Liquor also revealed themselves to us a few weeks ago; this discovery may have been the most valuable of all.

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

Remembering Mossy Oak’s Fox Haas

“A Mississippi camouflage empire says goodbye to a family hero” [Garden & Gun]

The History Behind the Signs Lighting Up Our Daily Lives: Vacuum-Form Signage and Human Connection

“Branding Main Street America and a rabbit hole into the history behind the vacuum-formed signage found in our daily lives” [Beth Mathews Design]

Vintage Clothes Are Great. Vintage Shopping Keeps Getting Worse

“From appointment-only showrooms to calling every garment a “piece,” the pretense around vintage has skyrocketed along with the prices. Just put the vintage Levis in the bag, bro, writes GQ columnist Chris Black.” [GQ]

Read more

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

The Real McCoy’s Edition

“On fidelity, Americana, and moving beyond reproduction.” [WITI]

Clothes Are Nice. Fashion Biz, Not As Much!

[Om]

A posh and peculiar British magazine is thriving

“The unusual pleasures of ‘Country Life’” [The Economist]

Hell on Wheels

“No Pinto was going to make a flame-broiled burger out of me.” [New Times]

The last glove makers of Naples

[FT*]

The Men Who Lie About Their Height

“From guys trying to make it past women’s six-foot filter on dating apps to basketball players hoping to get drafted, men continue to exaggerate how tall they are.” [The New Yorker*]

A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.

OMTC Nº240 Handwoven Surplus Utility Shirt

Ballparks: Past & Present

Walker & Wells AUTHENTIC TOTE BAG #190

Quaker Marine Supply Cotton Linen Variable Stripe Shirt in Atlantic Blue

Ray-Ban® Wayfarer® polarized sunglasses

Monostereo Moondance Barn Jacket

Radcliff Menge of Tom Beckbe

Over the past decade, Radcliff Menge has built Tom Beckbe from a single waxed jacket into one of the more interesting sporting brands in America.

We caught up with Radcliff to talk about building a company from scratch, what most people misunderstand about field clothing, why sporting culture continues to resonate beyond the field, and the stranger he almost ran into in midtown Manhattan wearing a Tensaw Jacket.

Starting an independent clothing brand from scratch is usually a bad idea. What made you do it anyway?

Naivete.

We didn’t start out thinking about building a whole brand. We sold one product in five sizes and two colors for over two years before I quit my regular job. The real turning point was realizing how much more people wanted from Tom Beckbe. So we figured, how hard could it be to build out a whole line? It turns out that the answer is: pretty hard. We’ve just been fortunate enough to strike a chord with folks, and that’s a pretty great reward for the journey. It is not a short trip, though, so interested travelers beware.

Where does sporting culture sit in menswear right now? Is the interest coming from the activity itself, or from the aesthetic?

I’m not sure the aesthetic makes sense in a vacuum. It’s utilitarian. There has to be at least a passing interest in the purpose behind the apparel if only to understand why it exists. And that is really a search for authenticity. The good news is that, if you go all the way and start hunting and fishing, there’s incredibly rich and deep culture waiting for you. And the pursuit is incredibly compelling, both on an individual and shared level. So maybe the answer is — it’s real, compelling, and accessible. All you have to do is dive in.

When did you realize Tom Beckbe was connecting with people outside the sporting world?

We’ve had our fair share of cross-cultural moments, but one stands out. I almost ran into a guy wearing a Tensaw Jacket in a crosswalk in midtown Manhattan a few years ago. I gave him a knowing smile and kept moving.

Tom Beckbe reads as a much bigger operation than it actually is. Is that something you find yourself having to explain?

I certainly take it as a compliment both to the brand and to the incredibly talented team here.

How do you think about Tom Beckbe in relation to other legacy outdoors brands? What are you trying to do differently?

We are intensely focused on our customers and how they incorporate traditional and legacy materials into their modern life.

I don’t have an inside view of legacy brands that have been around for much longer than Tom Beckbe. But it’s not hard to imagine the weight of their institutional memory and how that can affect innovation. Think of all of the inertia behind doing something because you have, quite literally, always done it that way.

The historical context of the category is important, but it should be a reference and not limiting. The materials work, and that’s why people continue to love them. That doesn’t mean the garments shouldn’t be designed with a current fit and utility. Of course, we will always celebrate the heritage of the category along with the great traditions around field sports. But our gear is meant to be worn for real outdoor use today.

What does a jacket need to do that most people who haven’t actually worn one in the field don’t think about?

Movement is absolutely the most critical element. Whether you’re casting a rod or shooting a gun, you need to be able to raise your arms. We engineer a lot of movement into the shoulders, back, and underarm so that you can be comfortably active. We also try to be mindful of the need for pockets without overdoing it. Chest pockets are great if you are wading and fishing, but they are not great for shooting. We really try to design each piece into a specific use category and let the mobility and utility evolve from there.

Who outside the outdoor world is doing something similar, making things that work hard and still look right?

There’s a lot of great western and workwear out there. They certainly work hard. Beauty is in the eye, so I’ll let other folks decide if they look right.

What do you wear when you’re not in the field?

Obviously I’m biased, but I wear Tom Beckbe pretty much every day. We have a full line of casual clothing that’s perfect in a lodge, traveling, or around town. I complement my regular Tom Beckbe wardrobe with Levi’s 511s, Alden boots and loafers, and tailored clothing from J. Meuser. I have an LL Bean down vest that was my dad’s in the 1970s that gets some air time in fall. But our casual items really are a nice expression of how I dress on a daily basis, particularly this time of year when we have so much heat and humidity in Alabama.

Outside of Tom Beckbe, what’s something you’ve bought recently that you enjoy?

I cook daily with a Smithey Ironware carbon steel pan. Down with non-stick. I buy duck calls from RNT in Stuttgart, Arkansas. They are the best in the business, in my opinion, and RNT is run by a husband and wife team who are just fabulous people. Pinhook “Vertical Series” rye and bourbon whiskies might have the best value-to-quality ratio going, which is saying something given their not inexpensive price points. I recently picked up a navy blazer from Officine Generale that is probably the best fitting off-the-rack tailored piece I’ve ever bought.

TRAVEL

1733 Daily Tote — Good for the office, the plane, pretty much anywhere. Notoriously out of stock, so don’t overthink it.

Tom Beckbe Leather Whiskey Tote — Showstopper at poker night.

Bennett Winch S.C Holdall — Solves the “traveling with a suit” problem for good.

Tough Traveler Fitness Duffel — Gym bag from the pride of Schenectady.

Evergoods Civic Travel Bag — Top-tier hands-free option.

ACL Golf Weekender — The perfect bag for a two-day golf trip.

Billingham Large Camera Bag — An iconic camera bag that will only get better with age.

OUTDOOR & SPORT

Finisterre Searcher Hybrid Short — Do-it-all summer shorts from a great company.

Patagonia Capilene Cool Sun Hoody — A summer essential for beach days, fishing trips, and chasing kids around.

Outerknown Sur Easy Sweats — Respectable sweats. Still not airport-approved.

On Cloudhorizon 2 Hiking Shoes — Upgrade his lawn-mowing beaters.

Bennett Winch Sport Holdall — Finally, a good-looking tennis bag.

Patagonia All Wear Unlined Jacket — The classic coaches jacket gets an update.

Pinebury Wool Sweatpants — If you know about wool clothing you are aware that it’s the best natural material. These sweatpants are excellent for post-ride or just lounging around with the paper.

HOME & HEALTH

Messermeister Oliva Elite 8” Chef’s Knife — One knife to rule them all.

Travoca Rigel 45 Dual Zone eCooler — Insanely overbuilt cooler for the beverage-maxxing dad.

Moccamaster KBGV Select — Easy upgrade to his coffee program. Whole-house benefits.

Great Scrape Woody Shovel — Simple solution for keeping the grill clean and mean.

Polar Recovery 2.0 Ice Bath — You don’t have to be an Andrew Huberman sycophant to appreciate a cold plunge. A good way to find out if it’s for him before spending a few thousand dollars.

Good & Services Shoe Repair — Give his favorite pair of shoes a second life.

Leffot Ultra Shoe Trees — Cheaper than a recrafting bill.

STYLE

Sunspel Riviera Polo — His new favorite polo.

Junior’s Olive Drap Harrington Jacket — A handsome Made in England Harrington from one of our favorite shops.

Buck Mason Paperback Twill Full Saddle Chino — Set-it-and-forget-it chinos.

Rivay Italian Tour Knit Sport Coat — Even if he doesn’t like sport coats, he’ll like this one.

Seiko Prospex Alpinist — Great value everyday timepiece. Hard to argue with.

Rose & Co. A6 Sunglasses — The best eyewear for the money and likely an upgrade from whatever he’s wearing now.

Rancourt & Co. Classic Ranger Moc — A classic for a reason.

Lady White Co. OUR T-SHIRT 2-PACK — Sturdy fabric, bulletproof neckline.

ETC.

A trip to MLB Spring Training — Worth going at least once in your life.

Goldbelly — Get him his favorite hometown meal, assuming it’s not Skyline Chili

The Criterion Channel CC40 Box Set — Buy an old DVD player and fire up some classics. The recommendation engine has had its chance.

Ballparks Leather Book by Graphic Image — America’s ballparks in a beautiful and functional form. Made in USA.

Freewrite Traveler — A distraction-free e-ink writing tool to encourage the writer in him.

A Vintage Film Camera — Nothing compares to family photos captured on film. If I could only have one camera, I would want a 35mm point-and-shoot.