The Material Review

“The Apple Pan is the matrix, the template, the straw that stirs the drink, and it is no coincidence that when nostalgia-mongering restaurateurs attempt to duplicate the Los Angeles hamburger experience, it is to the Apple Pan hamburger that they turn”

[Los Angeles Times]

As American as the Greek Salad

“How the combination of cucumbers and feta gained a few ingredients and became a coast-to-coast staple.” [TASTE]

Clean Plates, Empty Mugs: The Hidden Histories of Diner Ware

[The Henry Ford]

Also… How the Victor Coffee Mug Changed the Way We Drink Coffee

AND…Bunn sold this spring after nearly seventy years in the family.

Price’s-Always Open

[The New Yorker]

Last Night at the Diner

“A kitchen impresario and the town that needed him.” [The New Yorker]

Pann’s in LA

A Corner Booth for Your Soul

Have you ever been a regular? Do you have a Saturday morning pancake ritual with your children? Is there one place you go every week and sit in the same seat at the counter? These are the quintessential diner experiences. Norm can have the bar — there’s no better place to have them know your name than a diner. I’m lucky to have one of these beloved institutions in every city I have ever lived.

On 44th Street, I frequent the Red Flame Diner. I’m there so often (despite living on the West Coast and not visiting until I moved away from New York) that the night counter man knows my name. Sometimes its a turkey burger deluxe, sometimes it’s bacon, eggs, avocado and one pancake. Either way, it’s fast, friendly, and comes with unlimited amounts of hot coffee.

In Los Angeles, I have two favorites. Snug Harbor, the 1940s time warp that is perfect in every way. Another obsession further south is Pann’s in Los Angeles. Straight out of a movie, it is one of the most incredible rooms in LA. Since I live in San Diego now, any time we fly out of LAX we make a point of allowing for time to make a stop at Pann’s. There I almost always go for the chicken and waffles — which feels correct.

I often think about the old Eisenbergs and the ping I felt in my teeth on the first sip of a Lime Rickey while I worked my first job in NYC in 2002. I also long to visit the Sugar Bowl Luncheonette in Darien one more time. I miss that place. Same goes for The Doodle up the road in New Haven. They are all still serving pancakes in the great big sky above.

All of these places have a simple offering with speed and familiarity, but they hit you deep in your soul. These are the venues for the mundane and everyday life where nostalgia takes root. Since they all feel so well known, the good feelings compound there, which is probably why we form such strong bonds with these places. We know them, and they know us. That and a good pancake —is there anything more powerful in this world? — MW

Jake Hook / Diner Theory

We’ve loved following Jake Hook’s visits to L.A.’s diners and coffee shops on Diner Theory, and putting together this issue felt like the perfect excuse to chat. Jake is a philosophy professor at Cal State Fullerton and runs the Diner Preservation Society, a social club for people who love these places as much as we do. We asked him what he looks for in a diner, which spots he’s worried about losing, and where he’d send us for a good meal.

How did you get so deep into diners? Was there one place that started it?

I’ve always sort of liked diners, my dad brought me to a lot of them as a kid. His favorite restaurant was Chili John’s, so an honest hole in the wall like that was ingrained in my mind from a young age. My dad passed away during COVID, so the fact that I can go somewhere like Chili John’s and have the exact same experience I had all those years ago means a lot.

As I got older though, I started studying philosophy, and as a grad student, I noticed that a lot of my best ideas came to me at diners. They’re very reflective sorts of places. And so I started to think, what is it about diners that encourage this kind of reflection and epiphany. I think that’s when I realized that diners had sort of a greater importance than most people can put into words.

How is the SoCal diner unique compared to other greasy spoons in the US?

Technically speaking, there aren’t a lot of “true” East Coast-style diners in SoCal. If you asked someone in LA in like, 1940, what a place like Nick’s Cafe was, they’d call it a coffee shop. “Diners” originally just referred to prefabricated diner cars like you see in New Jersey. In SoCal, it was the coffee shop that really bred a culture of its own. They’re a lot like diners, they share a lot of the same visual language and the same short order kitchen format. Where they really stand out is in the architectural style. The classic California coffee shop borrows from Art Deco, Googie, postmodern, lots of different styles and different eras, and some of them accumulate elements of a lot of different styles. I think some of the great coffee shops of SoCal have this really eclectic quality where you can really see these different chapters of a places history. In terms of menu, diners and coffee shops of all kinds tend to be pretty eclectic, but you’re more likely to see Mexican food, and a greater variety of it, in SoCal diners versus anywhere else. There are also a couple of regional California dishes that seem to live primarily on diner menus, like the chili-size or the Joe’s special.

When you walk into a diner for the first time, what tells you it’s going to be good before you’ve eaten anything?

As a rule, wood is good. If there’s a lot of wooden fixtures, exposed wooden beams, wood paneling, that’s a good sign. Same with linoleum, terrazzo, or old tile. If they’ve still got stuff like this in place, generally it means the owners don’t like to change anything, don’t care about keeping up with trends. And that usually extends to the menu, recipes remain generally unchanged. For example, they might still use lard or beef tallow in a recipe from way back in the day, and never changed during the anti-fat movement of the 80s when everyone else did.

Hand written menu items haphazardly taped on the wall somewhere, I like to see things like that. And of course, I love the signs that a good diner has been lived in. Scuffs on the counter, chips in the coffee mugs, cracks in the leather of the stools. That stuff tells me it has regulars, that it’s a place everyone keeps coming back to.

Where have you seen an immigrant-run diner’s cooking come through on the menu in a way you love?

There’s so many places I could name, but one that I’ve recently fallen in love with is Armon’s in Eagle Rock. It’s gone through a few different generations of ownership, and each one adds something to the menu that just sticks. You’ll find standard American breakfast alongside Mexican, Chinese, and Thai dishes. The current owners are a Thai family, and they recently launched a whole new menu of Thai specialties alongside the regular menu, and that stuff is really, really good. Noodles, curries, stir frys. I’d bet it’s the best Thai food in Eagle Rock. My favorite is the Doctor Special.

Tell us about the Diner Preservation Society. Who shows up, and what actually happens at those meet ups?

The Diner Preservation Society is a social club for anyone who loves diners and thinks they’re important to the culture and history of Los Angeles. Anyone can come to a meeting, we don’t take attendance or anything. I would say the majority of people who come are young-ish people, 25-35, but we get the whole range of people from retired folks to the occasional teenagers. There’s a vaguely alternative undercurrent to some of the group, while others just have good memories of these places that they’d like to relive and share with people. As for what we do, I try to remember to make a toast of some kind, maybe advise on the highlights of the menu, but it’s mostly just good conversation and good food.

Which diner are you most worried about right now, and which one do you think outlives all of us?

I’m most worried about Armon’s, since the landlord jacked up their rent by 180% a few months ago. I’m also pretty concerned about Du-Par’s, they’re not doing so hot, and it would be a shame to see them cut corners to make ends meet, or worse: close. As for a diner that outlives us, at one time I would have said the Pantry, but they’re currently closed! I know they’re planning to reopen, but any disruption of continuity can get dicey. I think people would probably riot if Canter’s closed, and the fact that the same family runs the business after almost a hundred years means there’s probably money in it enough to keep it running.

If you could send someone to three diners anywhere in the country, where are they going and what are they ordering?

S&P Luncheonette in New York. Get a tuna melt and an egg cream. Robert’s Grill in El Reno, Oklahoma, get a fried onion burger. Go to Chili John’s in Burbank, get the chili spaghetti, and don’t skimp on the grease—that’s where the flavor is.

A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.

Counter Culture: The American Coffee Shop Waitress

Fishs Eddy HL Greenband Set

Dexter-Russell Hamburger Turner

Durango Diner Green Chile Sauce

The Material Review

Michael Williams — Wed, 16 Sep 2026 11:04:41 GMT

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

The Best Workout Gear Is a Cotton Tee

“Fancy synthetic workout gear might promise to wick away your sweat, but there’s a more comfortable and less stinky alternative sitting in your drawer: Your favorite old cotton T-shirt.” [GQ]

The Rise of the Unstoppable American Tourist

“A supercharged U.S. economy has helped transform a nation of homebodies into zealous international travelers; ‘Travel isn’t optional’” [WSJ]

25 of the Best Vintage Shops in America

“25 shops that offer major ROI.” [Huckberry]

Your Clothes Deserve a Maintenance Schedule

“And for waxed jackets, New England Reproofers can help.” [Wardrobe]

Jay Maisel, Photographer of Miles Davis and Much More, Dies at 95

“His moody portrait became the album cover for “Kind of Blue.” Mr. Maisel lived and worked in an old bank that he bought for $102,000 and sold for $55 million.” [NYT]

Why is my mustard spicier than normal? An investigation into a global Dijon mystery

“The search for an answer took us to a mustard dynasty in France, a Hamilton mustard mill and Palliser’s Triangle.” [Toronto Star]

A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.

Crockett & Jones Vail

Gitman Vintage Indigo Silk Denim

Engineered Garments Cruiser Jacket - Olive Cotton Moleskin

Late Nine 5-Pocket Cords Olive

American Trench Donegal Fleck Sport Coat

WHR 6-Panel Side Vent Hat (Moss)

Josh York

Josh York has been making clothes in his hometown of Detroit through his company Soft Goods for the past nine years. He clearly cares about the city, and we admire his commitment to building a business that employs people there and contributes to its comeback. After years spent mostly producing for other labels, he's been growing Soft Goods' own line, so we were excited to talk with him about the brand, how making clothes has changed the way he shops, and a few things he's been enjoying lately.

Why launch a clothing manufacturing business in Detroit? Does the city have a history of making apparel?

Detroit does have a surprisingly real history here — in the 1920s there was a knitting mill on the same block as our factory, and Carhartt started making workwear here even decades before that. Other parts of the country have a more defined history in textiles, but Detroit has a rich history in manufacturing, which is the bigger thread through time to what we’re doing.

I wanted to build Soft Goods in Detroit because I grew up here and my family is all still here. I was inspired by the city’s renaissance after the 2009 bankruptcy; seeing great people build businesses that were making a real impact on the comeback of this amazing city. I was already passionate about making t-shirts and figuring out how to sew garments, so moving back to my hometown to be part of that momentum and hiring Detroiters to make clothes with me felt like the right opportunity.

Is there a cut and sew garment you love that’s the basis for what you’re making at Soft Goods?

The t-shirt. I’ve been fascinated by them since elementary school when I saw my older cousin’s band play and they had a merch booth of tees they airbrushed in their garage. They had the band name, “Creepy Peter” in slime letters across and I wore that until it fell apart. Ever since, I’ve been drawn to how t-shirts transcend society — everybody wears them, no matter who they are or where they’re from, and each one carries a story. I still have t-shirts from different chapters of my life, band shirts, job shirts, family reunions, you name it. Many are hanging on to bare threads or don’t fit anymore, yet I can’t get rid of them because of the sentimental value they hold. That fascination is what led me to try to make the perfect one, not with a graphic, but with amazing fabric and fit that will last forever.

When I started Soft Goods, I made a t-shirt every single day until I perfected it months later. Nine years later, it’s still the same tee, and Soft Goods will now make almost 10,000 t-shirts this year, among the other styles we’ve added to the line.

What has making clothes changed about the way you think about buying things?

I was struck early on by how long it actually takes to make even a simple t-shirt — ten to fifteen minutes of labor per shirt. Way longer than the 30 seconds it was taking me to screen print one. Yet you can still buy some tees for $3. That gap taught me to appreciate craft and the time it takes to make something well and it’s changed how I shop in general. I didn’t pay myself for the first 3-4 years of being in business, so I didn’t have much money, but rather than just buying something cheap that would fulfill my needs right there and then, I started to recalculate the numbers in my head. I would rather invest in something well made that will give me utility and joy long into the future vs just going for instant gratification. I became proud of the things I owned, rather than just using them to look a part or fill a need temporarily. Especially knowing that every dollar I spent came from how hard I worked every day sewing t-shirts, each one was all the sudden worth a lot more!

What’s the best thing you’ve bought this year that you can’t stop recommending?

I technically didn’t buy them, but the Brushtail Socks from William Ellery. In January I was grabbing a beer in Paris with Trevor and he was saying “A good pair of socks can change your life” and I thought he was being dramatic. Well let me tell you: These things have changed my life. They are made with a blend of Possum and Merino wool and they feel so different than any other wools sock I have. They almost feel like cashmere, but they seem to wear in way better than cashmere, in that they last a lot longer. They don’t smell either. I can wear them a few days in a row and they are incredible for traveling light. They are so warm and breathable and are life changing socks. They are expensive for a sock, but so worth the cost based on the joy you experience wearing them over and over.

What’s happening at Soft Goods? What are some of the new things that are coming soon?

Soft Goods is in the middle of a big pivot. For the first 8 years the company operated as a private-label first manufacturer, and we only relaunched as a consumer-facing brand a year ago. Until last year, our website acted as a portfolio, you couldn’t really buy much from us directly. In the past year, Soft Goods went to our first-ever trade show in January, and this fall our branded products will be carried in fifteen stores across the globe, from Scotland to South Korea to Japan to the U.S. The brand is also pushing hard online, releasing our first full collection ever this year. On the product side: our bread and butter tees are being joined by cotton sweaters, beanies, fleece, and we are dipping our toes into Alpaca socks and a wool sherpa line, which has me very excited. A vest and zip-up jacket made with 100% American Grown wool, 100% cotton backing, made with cotton thread, cotton labels, and even cotton zipper tape. No synthetics anywhere. I don’t believe you can find a synthetic-free and American-made product like this on the market, and I’m super excited to be the brand bringing them with the world and to round our Soft Goods knitwear collection.

What’s a brand or company you think deserves a much bigger audience?

Leon Footwear. I wore New Balance 574’s almost exclusively for a number of years and was telling my wife last summer that I needed to find a slightly more stylish leather shoe to upgrade my overall style. Then I met Gavin and Casey last fall and they sent me their Maverick shoe and it quickly became my go-to. I wear them probably 5 days a week and will be adding more colors into my life soon.

These guys are operating at a high level; great product, content and on top of that they are genuinely good people building a business the right way. It’s only a matter of time before they pop off in a big way, and I’m excited to watch it happen and say I told you so.

What’s something you’ve become obsessed with recently that has nothing to do with clothing?

I’ve really gotten back into reading this year. My wife and I will occasionally watch a show before bed, but we welcomed a new baby this year, so the tv has been permanently off (until football and hockey seasons start back up this fall). In my spare time on weekends and before bed every night, I’ve been diving deep into books. It’s such a great way to take a break from screens and unwind by immersing myself into a story. I know reading is no new secret, but it’s kind of become a rekindled hobby of mine. I used to be really into WWII books, but lately have been enjoying reading memoirs from people my age. It’s so fascinating to learn about other people’s experiences in life from other parts of the world. I read about a guy my age who walked from El Salvador to America when he was 10. A woman my age in rural China that left her family to work 80 hours a week in a shoe factory. The perspective I’ve gained through these stories has made me a more grateful person and likely a better business owner and father.

The Material Review

Michael Williams — Sat, 12 Sep 2026 11:09:39 GMT

Summer’s over and the students are back on campus. Here’s an issue about colleges, the towns around them, and some of the things that haven’t left.

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

On the Campus — John McPhee

“The campus gradually absorbs a campus rat.” [The New Yorker]

This Southern College’s Football Tailgate Is Unlike Any Other

“Alabama’s tailgating runs on victory, and LSU’s runs on Cajun culture—but at Ole Miss, it runs on nostalgia.” [Southern Living]

also…‘Cult’-like college football akin to ‘living on a different planet’ for some students

The Secret Oral History of Bennington: The 1980s’ Most Decadent College

“Fall, 1982. A new freshman class arrives at arty, louche, and expensive Bennington College.” [Esquire]

The Material Review

Michael Williams — Wed, 09 Sep 2026 11:04:14 GMT

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

Vintage Fashion Is Changing the Economics of Desirability

“The $289 billion and growing resale market is upending the carefully cultivated world of luxury” [Bloomberg]

High Highs and Low Lows

“My biggest take away after a year building wood boats on the Maine coast.” [The Next Thing]

The Secret Design History of Peanuts

“As a buzzy NYC pop-up exhibition celebrates the strip’s cultural legacy, AD explores how Charles M. Schulz documented the evolution of the American home, from iconic Eames chairs to ’80s chintz” [AD]

The Backlash Against Polyester Has Gone Too Far

“Clothing made from natural fibers isn’t always better.” [The Atlantic*]

The Quest for a Hangover Cure

“Scientists still aren’t sure what makes us feel lousy after drinking—but that hasn’t stopped companies from touting new and purportedly scientific remedies.” [New Yorker]

A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.

LEJ 1 Pocket Officer’s Shirt

De Bonne Facture Forest Jacket

Gramicci Multi-Tool Card

Drake’s Indigo Cotton Wadded Vest

Madewell Utility Pant

Bijan Shahvali

Bijan is a longtime fixture in NYC menswear and the current Brand Director at Corridor. We’ve long been fans of his excellent vintage shop, Intramural, and were excited to speak with him about what he’s been up to at Corridor, his favorite pickup of the last year, and what defines his personal taste.

How do you explain Corridor to people who aren’t familiar with it?

Corridor is a Brooklyn based menswear brand that’s remained independent since being founded in 2013. Dan, the founder/designer of the brand, is inspired by traditional textiles, as well as the art and music of Folk Americana. You can see this woven into each garment and feel it when you step into one of our seven stores in New York and Los Angeles.

How does experience with buying vintage for Intramural still shape the way you approach your work at Corridor?

The vintage landscape is increasingly crowded, and so something that is always important to me with Intramural is making sure the perspective and messaging feels distinct and remains consistent. I always want to make sure the Intramural perspective is felt at every touchpoint, from the product curation to the way things are displayed/photographed to the brands I’ve partnered with. At Corridor, I approach my role as a steward of the direction the brand is heading and ensuring that it is felt wherever the brand is experienced.

Tell us about the new collection. What are you most excited for people to see?

The new collection is all about restraint. Throughout, you’ll notice a real focus on simplicity, with a quieter, more muted palette. The clothing feels lived-in with texture and color settling into a kind of natural harmony you can only get with time.

The pieces are easy to wear and I think everyone will be able to find something that will fit right in with their existing wardrobe. I’m really excited for people to see the outerwear and the alpaca-blend knits. There are pieces that I’m also excited about that just have the perfect wash and color like our zip hoodie in Blue and the Wide Twill pant in brown.

What makes a collection feel successful to you?

A successful collection is deliberate and cohesive. One in which you can mix any tops and any bottoms from the collection and it works great. From a more macro brand perspective, a testament to a successful collection is that it feels like a natural progression from the one before it. I think you want to see longtime customers mixing your current collection with past collections.

What’s the best thing you’ve bought this year?

The best thing I bought this year wasn’t vintage, it was a pair of black leather Clarks Wallabees. I find myself wearing them with everything. Instantly, the most versatile shoe in my rotation.

If someone wanted to understand your taste, what three things would you point them toward? A book, a record, a jacket, a building...anything.

The Material Review

Michael Williams — Wed, 02 Sep 2026 11:03:33 GMT

Lakes have been on our minds, for reasons both seasonal and otherwise. So before summer gets away from us, an issue devoted to life by the water.

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

Once More to the Lake by E.B White

Wisconsin Supper Clubs

“Childhood memories may be haunted but the relish tray abides” [County Highways]

“Lake Tahoe” from Roughing It by Mark Twain

The Lake Effect

“At Mountain Lake, where the Dirty Dancing lift was filmed, the lake drained into the earth in 2008 and never came back. The bartender still plays the movie above the liquor bottles and recites the lines five seconds ahead. Tourists ask why they don’t just fix it.” [Oxford American]

The Lake Monsters of America

“Fish Man-Goat Terrifies Couples Parked at Lake Worth” [Atlas Obscura]

How the Most Popular Sailboat Ever Was Invented

“The Sunfish taught millions of Americans to seize the breeze” [Smithsonian]

What to Bring

Everyday Mountaineering Hemp-Tech Shorts

Tom Bihn Monster Truck

Finisterre Portell Wool 1/4 Zip Fleece

Mephisto Hurrikan

Sentinel Basecamp Chair

Lapo’s Nigroni Water

Foris Outdoors Fishing pants

Viyella Long Sleeve Cotton & Linen Sport Shirt - Blue & Buff Plaid

What to Read

Ninety-two in the Shade by Thomas McGuane

A Good Day to Die by Jim Harrison

The Survival of the Bark Canoe by John McPhee

Memories

I grew up going to Pinecrest Lake in the Sierra Nevada every summer. I was seven or eight when I caught my first fish, a rainbow trout near the dam. The line zigzagged through the water as I reeled it in.

My grandfather showed me how to hold the fish so the spines wouldn’t stab me. Then he took it and smacked it against a rock. I can still hear the sound. He showed me how to gut it, and we ate it that night. I’ve eaten a lot of fish since, and none of it has tasted as good. — TS

The Material Review

Michael Williams — Sat, 29 Aug 2026 11:05:39 GMT

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

Rick Kelly Will Build Your Guitar from a Church, a Brothel, or a Bar

“The legendary luthier of Carmine Street has spent 50 years repurposing old New York into instruments played by Bob Dylan, Lou Reed, and more.” [Totei]

A General Store Almost as Old as America

“Ben Shattuck, the proprietor of Davoll’s in coastal Massachusetts, yearns for a retail world before chain stores and online shopping.” [NYT]

The Rise of the Soccer Shirt Economy

“How many jerseys is too many? In the Premier League, a limit may not exist.” [Reuters]

The Material Review

Michael Williams — Wed, 26 Aug 2026 11:05:38 GMT

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

How Christopher Nolan Helped Create a Beloved Sub-$1,000 Watch

“12 years after the release of Interstellar, a timepiece designed for the movie boasts a cult following of its own.” [GQ]

The Music Never Stopped

“Dancing bears! Steal Your Face skulls! How the Grateful Dead’s iconography went from counterculture to country clubs—and became American fashion’s longest and strangest trip” [Air Mail]

There’s No Reason to Buy a New Phone Anymore

“Consumers are ditching the hype cycle and buying used devices in unprecedented numbers.” [The Atlantic]

The Material Review

Michael Williams — Sat, 22 Aug 2026 11:03:11 GMT

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

Old-fashioned snobbery is out. Microsnobberies are in.

“Now you’re judged on your children’s lunch boxes and whether your olive oil has a story.” [WaPo]

We Bought a $500 Counterfeit Luxury Watch. Nobody Could Spot the Difference

“The replica watch industry is in its “super clone” era. Following tips from murky internet forums, we bought three budget fakes that were good enough to pass as real—but ultimately disposable.” [Wired]

Your Favorite Old T-Shirt Might Now Be Worth a Fortune

“Vintage graphic tees have become increasingly valuable for their ability to convey personality and authenticity—the rattier, the better” [WSJ]

The Material Review

Michael Williams — Wed, 19 Aug 2026 11:03:51 GMT

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

Why So Many Control Rooms Were Seafoam Green

“The Color Theory Behind Industrial Seafoam Green” [Beth Mathews Design]

America’s Family-Owned Restaurant Legends, From Hamburgers to Cheesesteaks

“Spanning a a New Orleans dining room to a Texas smokehouse, these iconic American institutions have stayed in the same families for generations” [Observer]

Can cool be cool? The rise of air-conditioned clothing

“In a world of soaring temperatures, wearable tech is improving all the time and is making its mark on the runways” [FT*]

The Material Review

Michael Williams — Sat, 15 Aug 2026 16:12:34 GMT

The Material Review

Michael Williams — Wed, 12 Aug 2026 11:05:16 GMT

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

Why Is Everyone Wearing Camouflage?

“Realtree and Mossy Oak turned patterns designed for the woods into coveted streetwear and luxury fashion.” [Bloomberg*]

The Bench as a Made Object.

“On the difference between a bench that is bought and a bench that is made, with Donald Judd as the court of appeal” [The Idle Gazette]

The 25 Objects That Explain America

[NYT*]

The Material Review

Michael Williams — Sat, 08 Aug 2026 11:05:19 GMT

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

Meet Your Favorite Menswear Expert’s Favorite Menswear Experts

“The Churchwell brothers are accomplished doctors, not TikTokers. But for a certain type of style fan, they’re also a perfect example of blending traditional tailoring know-how with just the right amount of self-expression.” [Esquire]

Meet the Parisian Designer Making Clothes Out of 200-Year-Old Fabric

“Oliver Church’s handmade shirts and jackets have earned him the respect of menswear fanatics around the world.” [GQ]

The Most Powerful Men in America Are Eating Only Steak and Sauerkraut. Could I?

“I ate like Robert F. Kennedy Jr. for a week. The results were fascinating.” [NYT*]

The Material Review

Michael Williams — Wed, 05 Aug 2026 11:04:39 GMT

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

Accept Your Fate. Don’t Wear Shorts to the Office.

[NYT*]

The Andouillette Does Not Travel

“Misadventures with a sausage.” [Harry Sword]

When Did Sports Get So Loud?

“Athletes have become influencers. In-game production has become “storytelling.” And everything has gotten very, very stimulating.” [The Atlantic]

The Material Review

Michael Williams — Sat, 01 Aug 2026 11:03:11 GMT

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

Same Shoe, Different Factory

“Only two major running brands still own their factories. The rest rent from the same pool of contractors. Many do so with no commitment past the current order.”

[Worse on Purpose]

Meet Me in the Notes App

“For better or worse, my notes app is the piece of technology closest to looking like the inside of my brain: a bit chaotic, annoyingly detail-oriented, and perhaps perpetually nostalgic.” [Time]

The Material Review

Michael Williams — Wed, 29 Jul 2026 11:03:24 GMT

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

23 THINGS IT’S OK TO STEAL FROM A HOTEL (and a definitive list of stuff you should leave in the room).

“Nick Jones’ new St. Clement hotel has a WHOLE CUPBOARD FULL of complimentary booty. But what about the bath robe or the hand-held steamer? Here’s a guide to what you can and can’t take home with you.” [Male on Sunday]

The ordinary sublime of the American diner

Pecan pie, Pecan pie, Pecan pie” [The Common Reader]

The Material Review

Michael Williams — Sat, 25 Jul 2026 11:02:38 GMT

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

Why Does This Jacket Cost $770? Because It Made Me a New Man.

“Lots of men are geeking out over very expensive clothes — and I became one of them.” [NYT*]

A Locomotive Named Big Boy Is Making Grown Men Cry

“The world’s largest operating steam locomotive is on its first coast-to-coast tour; ‘I was choked up’” [WSJ*]

How Did This Mysterious Shoe Brand Come To Define Good Footwear?

[Highsnobiety]

The makers of the little red government box

“Who are the elusive craftsmen behind one of Britain’s most prized possessions, shared by monarchs, prime ministers and private collectors?” [FT*]

The Anti-Sunscreen Movement Is Coming for You

“Sunscreen—one of the only products scientifically proven to reduce the risk of skin cancer—is in the middle of a PR crisis, with skeptics claiming it’s hazardous to your health. Experts dismiss the claims as misinformation, but has the damage already been done? MH investigates.” [Mens Health]

Is “Dressing The Man” Still Worth Reading?

[Wardrobe]

A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.

The Anthology Sueded Linen Suit Jacket - Ink Blue

Drake’s Hiking Jacket

Scarpa Rove Rock S GTX

School of Thought Side Pant in Khaki

Left Field NYC Crazy Shirt

From the Feed

IG: mercershirtmakers

IG: fishnthrift

IG: Canon - 093 Tennis Cycle I (Wimbledon, Fonika vs. Auger-Aliassime)

Gary Indjian and Greg Okawachi of Brother Brother

Gary Indjian and Greg Okawachi are the men behind Brother Brother, a Los Angeles shop with a great eye for well-made things and an expanding in-house line of their own. We admire the thoughtful way they’ve built the business and wanted to hear more about how they think, so we caught up to talk about the labels they’re most excited about, the products they’re still making the case for, and what they’ve been into lately outside of clothing.

What’s your overall vision for Brother Brother? What made you want to start this shop?

GO: From the first day we opened our door, the intention was to provide a unique assortment of products in a familiar and familial environment. It was always about prioritizing the interaction over the transaction. Both of us had been working in men’s fashion at different capacities and we both felt like our ideas and vision were better applied to a brand or business we could call our own.

GI: For me it always came back to wanting a space that felt like an extension of how we actually dress and think about goods, not an ecosystem for whatever was trending. Greg and I had spent enough time inside of this industry to know what we did and did not want to repeat. Starting our own thing meant we could be patient about who we worked with and grow with our customers instead of just moving products. From day 1 and now 7 years later - it’s still a lifestyle shop and place to hang.

Pick one brand that’s on the racks today. Where did you first discover it, and what convinced you it belonged at Brother Brother?

GO: Unlikely Dry Goods is the brainchild of Nakada Shinsuke. He has been a north star for me for quite some time, and when the opportunity came to work together it was really a no brainer. The product is perfectly considered and is the type of stuff I want to wear all the time. That’s sort of the litmus test when it comes to picking out goods for the store.

GI: Arpenteur was one of those brands I kept circling back to years before we ever placed an order. There’s something about how they hold onto traditional French workwear silhouettes without ever feeling costume-y - the cut is honest, the fabrics are considered, and none of it is shouting for attention. It rewards the customer who actually stops and looks closely, which is the whole point of how we want people to shop.

What’s something your customers have taught you that changed the way you buy for the shop?

GO: I think we’re incredibly blessed to have customers who invest and trust our eye for certain goods and brands. Something that other shops often rely on is the cache or momentum brands and products have rather than their own point of view. Our customer has reinforced the notion that if you can build a relationship with them around great customer service, they will trust your taste and try things they might not find anywhere else.

GI: That the story behind a piece matters as much as the piece itself. I’d sometimes buy something purely because it was well made and assume that would be enough. What I learned is our customers want to have a conversation around brands, references, fabric, etc - it’s special to see our customer come in with knowledge baked into their shopping habits.

What’s a product in the shop you’re still evangelizing, the one that needs a conversation before it clicks? What do people usually miss?

GO: Kind of a crazy take, but I think our customer is sleeping on Margaret Howell. It is the oldest brand that we stock (she’s been making clothes at an incredibly high level for 50+ years) but it’s relatively quiet. I think there are newer brands coming out of the UK that are very much inspired by her offering, but few do it at the same level. Once you walk a customer through some of the construction details or the fabrications, they begin to look at clothes and brands through a different lens.

GI: Carry goods, specifically Amiacalva and Klättermusen. It’s a funny category because nobody actually needs another bag - everyone’s got one that works fine. But when you find the right one, you want it bad, and that’s the conversation I love having. I love making people do a wear test around the shop carrying different totes.

How do you know when an idea should become a Brother Brother product instead of simply something you admire from another brand?

GO: I think Gary and I share this crazy enthusiasm for product and recognize how important it is to respect and understand what ultimately adds value to our customers. Because we also produce our own collection, there are times when we’d rather not attempt to enter a certain category or lane for the sake of doing it, and just let the specialists of that product be the authorities on it. From a design standpoint, there are certain things our customer might never care for and that’s completely fine. I think knowing who you are and being exceptional at what you do is much easier than chasing a trend or adopting a story that isn’t true to you.

GI: ^^^^

What’s the best thing either of you has bought recently that wasn’t inventory for the shop?

GO: On my last trip to Tokyo I bought a new pair of sunglasses. I’m in the habit of buying the same style of sunglasses whether vintage or new. This time I stepped away from my usual shape and settled on this collaborative pair from Eyevan & Kolor. I love them and for how much time I spend in the car, my eyes do too.

GI: I got obsessed with this pen that was completely sold out online - which, naturally, made me want it more than anything. It’s the uni-ball ZENTO Signature Model. Looks great, writes even better, and somehow the one that’s currently sticking out from the vast sea of pens in my bag as the go-to.

What’s the last thing you became genuinely obsessed with that had nothing to do with clothes?

GO: My 6mo daughter. She has put so much into perspective for me haha, and while I still love thinking about clothes and product– I’m so stoked that all of my hobbies and interests have become consumed by being a dad.

GI: I’m on a “reading books about Los Angeles” tear right now. I was born and raised here, but I’m obsessed with seeing our beautiful city through the perspectives of different authors at different times. I’m just getting started on The Library Book by Susan Orlean, and I recently wrapped a few by Jack Smith, whose columns are basically a time capsule of the city.

Looking around the shop today, what’s something that probably wouldn’t have made it onto the racks three years ago? What’s changed in your eye?

GO: We started carrying the brand H-O-R-S-E, which is just a little over a year old. It’s a more femme leaning unisex line that executes athletic apparel in natural fabrics. Sue, their founder, has a great eye for visuals and a refreshing take on clothing. It has taken some time, but I think I’ve become more confident in supporting our growing female audience. Especially when you can do so with rad brands that are doing great work.

GI: I think as the shop has grown, the customer who’s been with us from the early days has grown right along with us - what Greg and I are obsessed with shifts season to season, and they’ve been open to coming on that ride. We have some newness coming into the shop over the next few seasons that we’re both really excited about, and we can’t wait to share it with our customers.

As a thank you, Gary and Greg have generously offered 20% off everything at Brother Brother. Use code TMR20 at checkout or shop through the link below — good through August 31.

Shop

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