Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

The World Cup In Arlington Is Imperfectly Perfect

“Now that we’ve been there, we can say it: an Americanized World Cup is pretty weird. But it’s still the World Cup. And that makes it pretty great.” [D Magazine]

How La Marzocco Perfected the Espresso Machine

“Beloved by coffee enthusiasts, the century-old brand has built a philosophy based on timeless design, reliability, and watching baristas at work.” [TOTEI]

Hermès Wants to Win Over Watch Obsessives With Whimsy

“The French brand is a bit of an underdog in the field of horology. It’s working to change that.” [WSJ*]

The Best Magazine Articles About Fashion Ever Written (According to Me)

“This one’s a doozy” [freak palace]

Wirecutter Headlines During the Revolutionary War

“Why We Love This Wrought Iron Spit for Cooking Mutton Over a Hearth”

[McSweeney’s]

A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.

Campbell’s of Beauly Brushed Shetland Stripe Rugby

Sentinel X50 Kermit Chair - Olive (PRE-ORDER)

B.O.T.O River Lace

Big Rock Candy Mountaineering Candy Cords

Vintage Watches: The Modern Guide

SPC/LST Solstice_03S

Kapital Dixie Hickoree Cactus Coverall Mauve

From the Feed

The coffee shop where 162 regulars have their own mug (1977)

The Final Interview: Nigel Cabourn’s Life Story in His Words

Louis Cheslaw

Louis Cheslaw is a menswear writer whose work has appeared in GQ, the Financial Times, The New York Times, and Why is this Interesting? We’ve enjoyed his work for years, so we were excited to see him launch Wardrobe. We caught up to talk about the new newsletter, the London vintage shops he keeps going back to, and why a conversation in Stockholm made him a convert to Astier de Villatte incense.

What do you think of the current Substack / TikTok / YouTube era of menswear?

I mostly find the enthusiasm and energy sweet, and even positive when it means that independent designers with little-to-no marketing budgets get more attention. That being said, a lot of these accounts focus on a box-ticking approach to getting dressed—Four Pants You Need This Summer, say.

In my experience, that’s the fastest way to end up with a wardrobe that ultimately means nothing to you. The clothes I wear and like most are the ones that remind me of the place that I found them, or the person I was with the day I got them. Better still, they inexplicably just work on me, in ways other options didn’t. I don’t want people to miss out on those adventures because they followed a stranger’s rules.

You’re starting a new project. What is it, and why now?

It’s called Wardrobe, it comes out twice a week, and it’s really a way to lean further into those feelings I just shared. As I said in my launch letter, there’s a difference between impulsively shopping and truly building a wardrobe. The newsletter exists to help myself and others migrate from the former approach to the latter.

In practice, that means interviewing great dressers in detail (and often in their own homes) to understand how they think about what they wear, and where they found their best gets. It also means going to designer’s studios to learn the nuances within different fabrics and cuts, and to specialist retailers—like the shop in Paris that only sells fine socks—to extract some of the wisdom they’ve gained about their category.

We’ve done all of this and a little more so far, and it’s been really enjoyable. It’s also not my first rodeo: I became familiar with Substack as the Men’s editor of Magasin for the past two years, and working with Laura was an incredible education in how to stay consistent.

When you’re shopping for yourself, where do you actually go? Specific shops, sites, or places you find yourself returning to.

The best deals, bar none, are found second-hand. Living in London, I like Hornets in Kensington for classic dress shirts (Turnbull & Asser here will set you back no more than £30), and Twos in Hackney for slightly more interesting designer vintage. Still, I of course buy new from the brands I love. Right now, that’s mostly Lady White Co., Batoner, Mfpen, Henry’s. Crockett & Jones for serious shoes. And Kaptain Sunshine, MAN-TLE, and Margaret Howell if I’m being recklessly nice to myself.

Beyond the product itself, what makes a brand genuinely worth paying attention to? Who do you think is getting that right right now?

The product itself really is the thing–fabric, construction, and fit matter so much more than any witty campaigns or celebrity co-sign. That said, I’m always moved when a designer would clearly be making clothes, even if just for themselves. That’s what separates someone who started a brand after finishing business school, and someone who had to because it poured out of them. Examples there include Cecile Tulkens, Conkers, Gabriela Coll, Salon C. Lundman.

What are a few under-the-radar brands you’ve come across recently, in the UK or elsewhere, that more people should know about?

Many of the ones above, but I’m hoping to get to the bottom of the enigmatic Cease soon. And Horses is the one brand playing hardball with me this Paris, so I’ll report back once I’ve learned more / anything.

What’s something you’ve bought recently that you’re especially happy with?

When I flew to Stockholm to interview Christoffer Lundman, he told me he loved Astier de Villatte incense because it comes in a box of 200, so you can burn the sticks with reckless abandon. I’d previously dismissed the brand as Instagram-bait, but after picking up a couple of the boxes, I’m a total convert.

Is there anything you’ve got your eye on right now but haven’t yet acquired?

A John Smedley long-sleeved Sea Island polo shirt. Ideally I would end up a man who only wears these—I’ve met a few, they seem very content.

Outside of clothes, what are you most particular about, and what would you recommend?

I like reliable pens. I discovered Zebra Sarasa, with its perfect Blue-Black ink option, in Japan, and continue to stock up when I can. I also appreciate a nice plate—this is the nicest cereal / pasta bowl I’ve ever used.

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

Is the Windsong the sailboat of the future?

“Introducing ‘the coolest wooden boat ever built’. Possibly” [FT*]

Calvin and Hobbes and the Price of Integrity

“How Bill Watterson Stuck to His Guns — and Vanished” [The Republic of Letters]

Why the Cookbook Endures

“Not too long ago, the physical cookbook seemed to be heading toward the same fate as the compact disc. What happened was just the opposite.” [Taste]

Read more

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

“The Middle is Very Seductive”: Inside Menswear’s Value Shift

[Vogue Business*]

The 40 Most Rage-Inducing Problems in Tech

“The bugs, broken apps, and nightmare customer-service bots we can’t escape, presented as a blessed and sacred addendum to Pope Leo XIV’s new encyclical on AI” [The Ringer]

Rolex Fans Hope for Another ‘Pepsi’ Revival

“The blue and red variation of the GMT-Master II was removed from the brand catalog, but it wasn’t the first time.” [NYT]

“You Killed the Car”

“A Ferrari and a distinctive Highland Park home combined for an iconic scene in Ferris Bueller’s Day Off. This adapted excerpt from a new book details how it all went (crashing) down.” [Chicago]

The Whimsy and Heartbreak of America’s Garage Sales

“For $100, I bought bric-a-brac that explains a nation.” [The Atlantic]

A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.

Frizmworks Melange Check Work Shirt

Paraboot Barth

Sunspel Lightweight Cotton Poplin Blazer

Portuguese Flannel Punta camp collar shirt

Harold Denim Hang Short

Viberg x David Coggins

The Outsider IV

Post General

Quick-Dry Hoodie Towel

The Lunch Cooler Tote

Carry-On Backpack

DOUBLEWALL FLIP-TOP BOTTLE 300ml

The Shopping Basket Cooler Tote

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

How Nigel Cabourn Mastered Modern Workwear

“The late British designer built a global following through decades of meticulous collections inspired by vintage work garb and military gear, but nobody wore Nigel Cabourn better than the man himself.” [GQ]

The Last Days of Donohue’s

“Saying ‘goodbye’ to a New York icon from a different era.” [The Old Ghosts]

The Boeing 747 Begins Its Final Descent

“The jet was perhaps the pinnacle of American engineering excellence. Its retirement signals an end to an era of American culture—and ambition.” [The Atlantic]

The Inside Story of the Athens Music Scene

“How did the college football town spawn the B-52s, R.E.M., and Widespread Panic, to name just a few? The maestros and misfits who led Athens’s rise to one of the world’s most influential and improbable music towns tell all” [Garden & Gun]

Ian’s Shoelace Site Is Still The Best Site For Tying Your Shoes

“Ian’s Shoelace Site has been teaching people to tie their shoes for more than two decades. His knots are wonderful. But it is vulnerable to the forces tearing the internet apart.” [aftermath]

Leave It to Beaver

“Everything is bigger at Buc-ee’s” [The Baffler]

A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.

imogene + willie hencye natural indigo

SPELLBOUND LIGHT FATIGUE SHIRT

Record Culture Magazine Issue 11

Japanese Kitchen Scissors

Brother Brother Ripstop Shorts

Henry Fisher and Josh Allen of Hank’s Americana

Henry Fisher and Josh Allen are the minds behind Hank’s Americana, a New York-based print zine that has sold out all six of its issues. While clothing is often the way in, topics range from music and books to skateboarding, art, and plenty of other worthwhile rabbit holes. That’s part of why we enjoy it. Fisher and Allen have a refreshing perspective on style, treating it as a byproduct of curiosity and experience rather than an end in itself. We caught up to talk about nostalgia, Bob Weir, old issues of High Times, and what else they’ve been into lately.

Before Hank’s Americana existed, how did each of you end up becoming the kind of people who notice and care about these things?

HF: I’ve always been interested in clothes and culture, but as I got older and learned more about the world, I realized the two are inextricably linked. I distinctly remember being handed a September Issue of Vogue when I was in grade school and being encouraged to form an opinion by my mom. That’s always stuck with me. I’m fortunate to have that sort of foundation to care about this stuff, but it loses its luster when you discover bands and painters you are obsessed with. Jeans and shirts could never blow my mind the same way.

JA: I grew up obsessed with skating, but I never lived anywhere with much of a skate scene. Behold the Internet. An interest in skating grew into an interest in music, an interest in clothing, an interest in visual art, and an interest in tons of other things that at some point had to intersect with one another. Growing up, my only exposure to the fashion industry was peripheral exposure to haute couture and trendy “What’s hot and what’s not” discussions. I never cared about any of that so I assumed fashion wasn’t for me. It wasn’t until much later in my life that I realized I could not have been more wrong.

When did you realize Hank’s needed to exist physically instead of just online?

HF: When I realized there was a lack of fun style coverage for men in America in print compared to other countries. Japan has Popeye, Fudge, Brutus, etc., and France has L’Etiquette. The United States, or a few little freaks living here, have Hank’s Americana. I worked on my high school newspaper on the culture side and then as managing editor. Print media has always been an interest of mine.

JA: Hank’s was a print project before anything else. I was always around and Henry and I have talked at length about the magazine, its purpose, and its contents since its inception, but Henry started this project on his own and I came to the magazine as a creative partner later on. If you’re really trying to learn and explore your interests, at some point you will realize physical media has so much information you cannot readily find online. You can pay $5 to climb the paywall at whatever decades-old media institution, but you can also get a more rare and interesting perspective from the voices who couldn’t afford to build a large media apparatus.

Has your relationship with the project changed as more people have started paying attention to it?

HF: Growth is weird and we don’t care to create to spur it. In a world of optimization and squeezing out every last dollar, we like to be quiet and focus on what we think is exciting and worth chasing, big money be damned. We have full time jobs which affords us a freedom to get weird and chase what we actually love. Independence is something we have learned is our greatest strength, and it’s becoming increasingly important as we start shipping piles of zines around the globe. Happiness is a Hank’s Americana that still feels special and true to us, the guys making the project, first and foremost. If we are laughing and enjoying the process, we couldn’t care less about growth. It started as a twenty page project and a party with 144 Budweisers in a bucket, so we are really just playing with house money at this point.

JA: What he said.

Why do some old things still feel exciting while others just feel nostalgic?

HF: The best stuff has edge and real edge never dulls. When you have the world at your fingertips and it’s all readily accessible, there’s something so exciting about having to dig in and wade around in the weird. There are very few diamonds on Instagram, but the real world is littered with them. I’ve been collecting old High Times, for example — that shit is crazy and so fun. You can tell they didn’t give a rats ass what anyone thought, including the government. Most people today are the opposite — all they care about is what others think. When we are all looking over our shoulder at others, how can you search to define your own edge?

JA: Nostalgia is a yearning for the past. You have to fight the desire for regression and comfort and tread a new path. Referencing Henry’s answer, old High Times issues don’t trigger a yearning for the past because they did not make the 70’s and 80’s look fun for everyone; they existed counter to the mainstream culture, which is what makes them exciting. There are incredible images and thoughts in those magazines that you can take with you into the present day and build upon, rather than sit and mope about missing Larry Levan at Paradise Garage or the Grateful Dead with the full band intact.

Are there people whose style you find yourselves coming back to over and over again?

HF: Of course - so many. My dad, for sure. Gauthier Borsarello is about as chic as they come. Bob Weir in the 80s is also up there — the king of polo shirt and denim in my humble opinion. Iggy Pop — shirts are overrated for much of the year. Last but not least, Sid Mashburn. I started my career in the clothing business interning in their Houston store — working at Sid and watching my dad get dressed for work taught me the rules of menswear so I could grow up to love breaking them.

JA: Dylan Rieder was the first skater I noticed who had a clearly unique style. He had this ease, beauty, and simplicity in his skating that translated into his clothing–dark skinny jeans, sheer white tees and tank tops, slick leather jacket… but it was a style I never felt I could replicate for my body. The Quasi team has always had some really stylish riders on their team, specifically Gilbert Crockett and Bobby Dekeyzer. Of course the best style is authentic, and Stu Kirst has to have one of the most honest styles on the planet–no bullshit, just him with his Bastard t-shirt and decade-old des pair (his wife’s book store, which recently closed) hat flying down a 15-stair set and completely eating shit on his board. I’ve also definitely thought about what Henry would wear if he were looking at my closet, which has validated my inclinations to just freak it in an insane graphic tee or a really fried piece of clothing. In all seriousness, if I have a style north star, it’s Chris Gentile. I’ve always felt clothing is only, at most, half of someone’s style, with the other half rooted in how they operate in the world and carry themselves every day. Not only does Chris have impeccable fashion sense and an understanding of what’s really good in the world of clothing, but it’s impossible for me to look at him–a deeply talented visual artist working across various mediums, passionate shop owner supporting both contemporary fashion and New York surfing, family man in a city and industry that promotes individuality and self-centeredness, occasionally wicked DJ, nerd about everything, and incredibly humble and welcoming person, and say anyone has better style.

What’s something menswear people care deeply about that you’ve personally stopped caring about?

HF: Those guys on Substack telling everyone what to buy. It’s schilling and there’s nothing worse than schilling. You tried on 7 kinds of canvas sneakers? Sick, I tried on one and they look great. I don’t need someone to tell me how to shop or what to wear. It’s my livelihood to know about this bullshit.

JA: When I initially started hanging out with people who were deep into menswear, a lot of them looked like a mannequin. Of course, this is a product of knowing the rules and sticking to them steadfastly. It made me feel like menswear was more about following rules than breaking them. This is why, even if I don’t dress the same as him, Henry’s style is so inspirational to me. He has a deep understanding of the “rules” of menswear and a rich personality that can’t be expressed within the confines of the rules as they are understood by menswear enthusiasts. You can wear a hand-dyed t-shirt, cutoff khaki shorts, and Aurora Mary Janes and I’ll take you just as seriously, if not more, as if you were in a navy DB blazer, gray wool flannel trousers, and tassel loafers.

What are some things you’ve both come across lately that have made you genuinely excited?

HF: It’s not a new book, but Tom O’Neill’s CHAOS is required reading if you are fascinated by America. It draws lines and connects dots around the Manson Family Murders, the sordid history of the US Intelligence apparatus, and our nation’s inclination to deceive and impact society through backwards channels. It almost feels quaint in today’s world of open, wide-spread corruption. Dark rooms used to see these machinations, but today we have presidential approved crypto scams and oiled up meatheads wrestling in each others’ sweat on the white house lawn. The clown show leads the circus and we are all forced to stand in attendance. Some context will help you understand how and why we are where we are.

JA: Greg Sage’s (of Wipers fame) solo albums. Cooper Qua skated to “Soul’s Tongue” in the most recent Quasi video and I’ve had the full Straight Ahead album on repeat for the past few months. Dave Hickey was an incredible art critic whose essays I recently started reading, and even though I had never thought about art in the way he describes in his essays, I’ve found myself nodding along with his expert opinion (after plenty of re-reading and Webster’s Dictionary searches). Pilgrim produced their Albert Field Shirt in this incredible dobby weave that resembles ripstop and might become my go-to this summer. Henry and I recently saw Shadow Knell (side project of one of the dudes from Poison Ruin) live and I found it really moving. We also recently saw the Sissy Boys in full Revolutionary War regalia in Philadelphia, which was emotionally powerful in its own way. Also shoutout Fröthing Mad. The powers of Truck Liquor and Pocket Liquor also revealed themselves to us a few weeks ago; this discovery may have been the most valuable of all.

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

Remembering Mossy Oak’s Fox Haas

“A Mississippi camouflage empire says goodbye to a family hero” [Garden & Gun]

The History Behind the Signs Lighting Up Our Daily Lives: Vacuum-Form Signage and Human Connection

“Branding Main Street America and a rabbit hole into the history behind the vacuum-formed signage found in our daily lives” [Beth Mathews Design]

Vintage Clothes Are Great. Vintage Shopping Keeps Getting Worse

“From appointment-only showrooms to calling every garment a “piece,” the pretense around vintage has skyrocketed along with the prices. Just put the vintage Levis in the bag, bro, writes GQ columnist Chris Black.” [GQ]

Read more

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

The Real McCoy’s Edition

“On fidelity, Americana, and moving beyond reproduction.” [WITI]

Clothes Are Nice. Fashion Biz, Not As Much!

[Om]

A posh and peculiar British magazine is thriving

“The unusual pleasures of ‘Country Life’” [The Economist]

Hell on Wheels

“No Pinto was going to make a flame-broiled burger out of me.” [New Times]

The last glove makers of Naples

[FT*]

The Men Who Lie About Their Height

“From guys trying to make it past women’s six-foot filter on dating apps to basketball players hoping to get drafted, men continue to exaggerate how tall they are.” [The New Yorker*]

A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.

OMTC Nº240 Handwoven Surplus Utility Shirt

Ballparks: Past & Present

Walker & Wells AUTHENTIC TOTE BAG #190

Quaker Marine Supply Cotton Linen Variable Stripe Shirt in Atlantic Blue

Ray-Ban® Wayfarer® polarized sunglasses

Monostereo Moondance Barn Jacket

Radcliff Menge of Tom Beckbe

Over the past decade, Radcliff Menge has built Tom Beckbe from a single waxed jacket into one of the more interesting sporting brands in America.

We caught up with Radcliff to talk about building a company from scratch, what most people misunderstand about field clothing, why sporting culture continues to resonate beyond the field, and the stranger he almost ran into in midtown Manhattan wearing a Tensaw Jacket.

Starting an independent clothing brand from scratch is usually a bad idea. What made you do it anyway?

Naivete.

We didn’t start out thinking about building a whole brand. We sold one product in five sizes and two colors for over two years before I quit my regular job. The real turning point was realizing how much more people wanted from Tom Beckbe. So we figured, how hard could it be to build out a whole line? It turns out that the answer is: pretty hard. We’ve just been fortunate enough to strike a chord with folks, and that’s a pretty great reward for the journey. It is not a short trip, though, so interested travelers beware.

Where does sporting culture sit in menswear right now? Is the interest coming from the activity itself, or from the aesthetic?

I’m not sure the aesthetic makes sense in a vacuum. It’s utilitarian. There has to be at least a passing interest in the purpose behind the apparel if only to understand why it exists. And that is really a search for authenticity. The good news is that, if you go all the way and start hunting and fishing, there’s incredibly rich and deep culture waiting for you. And the pursuit is incredibly compelling, both on an individual and shared level. So maybe the answer is — it’s real, compelling, and accessible. All you have to do is dive in.

When did you realize Tom Beckbe was connecting with people outside the sporting world?

We’ve had our fair share of cross-cultural moments, but one stands out. I almost ran into a guy wearing a Tensaw Jacket in a crosswalk in midtown Manhattan a few years ago. I gave him a knowing smile and kept moving.

Tom Beckbe reads as a much bigger operation than it actually is. Is that something you find yourself having to explain?

I certainly take it as a compliment both to the brand and to the incredibly talented team here.

How do you think about Tom Beckbe in relation to other legacy outdoors brands? What are you trying to do differently?

We are intensely focused on our customers and how they incorporate traditional and legacy materials into their modern life.

I don’t have an inside view of legacy brands that have been around for much longer than Tom Beckbe. But it’s not hard to imagine the weight of their institutional memory and how that can affect innovation. Think of all of the inertia behind doing something because you have, quite literally, always done it that way.

The historical context of the category is important, but it should be a reference and not limiting. The materials work, and that’s why people continue to love them. That doesn’t mean the garments shouldn’t be designed with a current fit and utility. Of course, we will always celebrate the heritage of the category along with the great traditions around field sports. But our gear is meant to be worn for real outdoor use today.

What does a jacket need to do that most people who haven’t actually worn one in the field don’t think about?

Movement is absolutely the most critical element. Whether you’re casting a rod or shooting a gun, you need to be able to raise your arms. We engineer a lot of movement into the shoulders, back, and underarm so that you can be comfortably active. We also try to be mindful of the need for pockets without overdoing it. Chest pockets are great if you are wading and fishing, but they are not great for shooting. We really try to design each piece into a specific use category and let the mobility and utility evolve from there.

Who outside the outdoor world is doing something similar, making things that work hard and still look right?

There’s a lot of great western and workwear out there. They certainly work hard. Beauty is in the eye, so I’ll let other folks decide if they look right.

What do you wear when you’re not in the field?

Obviously I’m biased, but I wear Tom Beckbe pretty much every day. We have a full line of casual clothing that’s perfect in a lodge, traveling, or around town. I complement my regular Tom Beckbe wardrobe with Levi’s 511s, Alden boots and loafers, and tailored clothing from J. Meuser. I have an LL Bean down vest that was my dad’s in the 1970s that gets some air time in fall. But our casual items really are a nice expression of how I dress on a daily basis, particularly this time of year when we have so much heat and humidity in Alabama.

Outside of Tom Beckbe, what’s something you’ve bought recently that you enjoy?

I cook daily with a Smithey Ironware carbon steel pan. Down with non-stick. I buy duck calls from RNT in Stuttgart, Arkansas. They are the best in the business, in my opinion, and RNT is run by a husband and wife team who are just fabulous people. Pinhook “Vertical Series” rye and bourbon whiskies might have the best value-to-quality ratio going, which is saying something given their not inexpensive price points. I recently picked up a navy blazer from Officine Generale that is probably the best fitting off-the-rack tailored piece I’ve ever bought.

TRAVEL

1733 Daily Tote — Good for the office, the plane, pretty much anywhere. Notoriously out of stock, so don’t overthink it.

Tom Beckbe Leather Whiskey Tote — Showstopper at poker night.

Bennett Winch S.C Holdall — Solves the “traveling with a suit” problem for good.

Tough Traveler Fitness Duffel — Gym bag from the pride of Schenectady.

Evergoods Civic Travel Bag — Top-tier hands-free option.

ACL Golf Weekender — The perfect bag for a two-day golf trip.

Billingham Large Camera Bag — An iconic camera bag that will only get better with age.

OUTDOOR & SPORT

Finisterre Searcher Hybrid Short — Do-it-all summer shorts from a great company.

Patagonia Capilene Cool Sun Hoody — A summer essential for beach days, fishing trips, and chasing kids around.

Outerknown Sur Easy Sweats — Respectable sweats. Still not airport-approved.

On Cloudhorizon 2 Hiking Shoes — Upgrade his lawn-mowing beaters.

Bennett Winch Sport Holdall — Finally, a good-looking tennis bag.

Patagonia All Wear Unlined Jacket — The classic coaches jacket gets an update.

Pinebury Wool Sweatpants — If you know about wool clothing you are aware that it’s the best natural material. These sweatpants are excellent for post-ride or just lounging around with the paper.

HOME & HEALTH

Messermeister Oliva Elite 8” Chef’s Knife — One knife to rule them all.

Travoca Rigel 45 Dual Zone eCooler — Insanely overbuilt cooler for the beverage-maxxing dad.

Moccamaster KBGV Select — Easy upgrade to his coffee program. Whole-house benefits.

Great Scrape Woody Shovel — Simple solution for keeping the grill clean and mean.

Polar Recovery 2.0 Ice Bath — You don’t have to be an Andrew Huberman sycophant to appreciate a cold plunge. A good way to find out if it’s for him before spending a few thousand dollars.

Good & Services Shoe Repair — Give his favorite pair of shoes a second life.

Leffot Ultra Shoe Trees — Cheaper than a recrafting bill.

STYLE

Sunspel Riviera Polo — His new favorite polo.

Junior’s Olive Drap Harrington Jacket — A handsome Made in England Harrington from one of our favorite shops.

Buck Mason Paperback Twill Full Saddle Chino — Set-it-and-forget-it chinos.

Rivay Italian Tour Knit Sport Coat — Even if he doesn’t like sport coats, he’ll like this one.

Seiko Prospex Alpinist — Great value everyday timepiece. Hard to argue with.

Rose & Co. A6 Sunglasses — The best eyewear for the money and likely an upgrade from whatever he’s wearing now.

Rancourt & Co. Classic Ranger Moc — A classic for a reason.

Lady White Co. OUR T-SHIRT 2-PACK — Sturdy fabric, bulletproof neckline.

ETC.

A trip to MLB Spring Training — Worth going at least once in your life.

Goldbelly — Get him his favorite hometown meal, assuming it’s not Skyline Chili

The Criterion Channel CC40 Box Set — Buy an old DVD player and fire up some classics. The recommendation engine has had its chance.

Ballparks Leather Book by Graphic Image — America’s ballparks in a beautiful and functional form. Made in USA.

Freewrite Traveler — A distraction-free e-ink writing tool to encourage the writer in him.

A Vintage Film Camera — Nothing compares to family photos captured on film. If I could only have one camera, I would want a 35mm point-and-shoot.

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

The $255 Beach Shade Dividing America’s Coastal Towns

“Some beachgoers love Shibumis for their simplicity and safety. Others consider them a nuisance, and some places have banned them.” [WSJ*]

Why ‘Smart’ Products Have Started to Look Like the Dumb Choice

[NYT*]

The Fastball Has Never Been Faster

“Pitchers like Jacob Misiorowski are throwing harder than ever, a result of modern baseball’s pitching development. But what does that kind of velocity do to the human arm?” [New Yorker]

The Dude Ranch Above the Sea

“Steely Dan conjured a sealed-in-amber studio perfection—a sound that could alienate listeners as easily as seduce them.” [The New York Review]

The secrets of the Shinkansen

“Why Japanese train companies own hospitals, baseball teams, and retirement homes” [Works in Progress]

A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.

Boglioli for Trunk Wool Hopsack K Jacket

Wythe Kingdom moc

Ecru Nepped Silk

Huckberry x Bedrock Mountain Clog

Buck Mason Breeze Cotton Linen L/S Shirt

Muji Cotton Garment-Dyed Shorts

Prasan Shah of Original Madras Trading Company

Madras has always been one of our favorite summer fabrics — we’ve been making shirts in it with Original Madras Trading Company for several years. OMTC is unique that it has an extensive archive and it is one of the only comapanies still making Madras cloth the old way, by hand. (Most of what gets sold under the banner of madras today isn’t handloom and doesn’t bleed it did in the past.) We caught up with Prasan Shah, whose family has spent more than fifty years supplying fabric to some of the biggest names in American menswear, to talk about what genuine madras is, why it ages so well, and what makes it different.

Most of what gets sold as madras today isn’t made in Chennai, isn’t handloomed, and doesn’t bleed. What are people actually buying now?

Most of what is sold as “madras” today bears little resemblance to the original cloth that came out of Chennai. The majority is produced on modern power looms, often outside of India, and is designed to be colorfast and consistent. There is nothing inherently wrong with that, it serves the needs of today’s market, but it is a very different product from traditional Madras cloth.

For us, authentic Madras is defined not only by where it is made, but by how it is made. It should be handwoven in Madras, now Chennai, by skilled weavers using techniques that have been passed down through generations. Historically, one of the defining characteristics of genuine Madras was the way it softened and evolved with age, giving each garment its own character.

What most consumers are buying today is a modern interpretation of Madras rather than the original fabric itself. It is a bit like Harris Tweed. You can make a tweed inspired fabric anywhere in the world, but Harris Tweed can only come from a specific place and be made in a specific way. We believe the same principle applies to true Madras cloth.

What can you tell about a piece of handloom madras almost immediately just from touching it?

The first thing you notice is that it feels alive. Handwoven cloth has a character and texture that is difficult to replicate on a machine loom.

Because each length of cloth is woven by a single weaver, no two pieces are exactly alike. There is an inherent beauty in handwoven cloth that comes from the subtle irregularities and variations created by human hands. We do not see the role of the handloom weaver as mimicking a machine. We strive for craftsmanship rather than uniformity.

Today, sophisticated consumers increasingly appreciate individuality over perfect consistency. If a machine woven fabric contains an irregularity, there is usually a technical issue with the loom. If we find a few irregularities in a cloth woven on one of our handlooms, we know we have a weaver with a soul.

Those variations are not flaws. They are what give the cloth its identity. The beauty of handloom lies in what I like to call its perfect imperfections. It is a feature, not a flaw.

Your family spent fifty years supplying fabric to the biggest names in American menswear. What made you decide to build something around the original cloth instead?

Madras is the reason our family business exists and has survived for more than five decades. As a third-generation steward of the business, when we decided to launch our own label we had to ask ourselves what would remain relevant for the next fifty years.

Over the years we have produced for many wonderful brands, some of which are still thriving and others that have disappeared. Through all of those cycles, Madras itself remained. It has moved in and out of fashion, but it has never truly gone away.

At the same time, we were watching a craft slowly disappear. As the world becomes increasingly driven by technology, automation, and now AI, we felt there was value in returning to something original, human, and real. Building Original Madras Trading Company around handwoven Madras was our way of helping preserve a craft that deserves a future.

You’ve started hand spinning the yarn before it’s woven. Where does that actually show up in the finished fabric?

We currently hand spin only a small portion of the yarn used in our collection because it is a time consuming and expensive process.

You see the difference most clearly in some of our special weaves and naturally dyed fabrics. Handspun yarn introduces subtle variations in texture and character that are impossible to achieve with industrially spun yarn. The fabric feels more organic and develops beautifully with wear.

Some of our naturally dyed fabrics are also intentionally designed to bleed, which allows them to evolve over time in much the same way traditional Madras did decades ago.

Real madras changes pretty dramatically over time. What does a shirt look like after twenty years when it’s been worn constantly and washed hard?

It looks like a shirt with soul.

The colors soften, the fabric relaxes, and it develops a patina that no amount of money can buy. The shirt begins to tell the story of the person who wore it. In many ways, a great Madras shirt becomes more beautiful with age because it reflects a life well lived rather than remaining frozen in time.

When you started the hand weaving operation, the specialist you brought in went back to his village looking for weavers and found just one person still actively doing it. Did that surprise you, or did you already know how close this was to disappearing?

It did not entirely surprise us, but it certainly reinforced the urgency of what we were trying to do.

One of the reasons we founded Original Madras Trading Company with the commitment that everything would be handwoven was because we could see this tradition slowly disappearing.

When we launched the brand for Spring Summer 2020, we worked with just two weavers. Today, thanks to the support of our customers and wholesale partners around the world, we help support more than fifty weavers and their families.

That growth gives me hope. It proves that there is still a place in the modern world for genuine craftsmanship when people are given the opportunity to experience it.

Outside of OMTC, what have you been most interested in lately? Could be a maker, a cloth, a place, a book, a craft tradition, anything you’ve found yourself thinking about a lot.

I was recently married, so I would have to say this new chapter of my life.

My wife has spent much of her career in fashion marketing and PR, and while she doesn’t work in the business with me, she has become one of my most trusted advisors. She has an uncanny ability to simplify problems that I have spent days overthinking.

She is also very good at reminding me that there are bigger things in life than whether someone is selling machine-woven Madras and calling it handloom. I am not always convinced she’s right, but she is usually right.

Between building a business and being newly married, I have found myself thinking less about the next season and more about building things that last. Fortunately, she is patient enough to listen to far more discussions about cloth and weaving than anyone should reasonably have to endure.

Welcome to Classifieds. A place to share what’s happening in and around our world. Shops, events, newsletters, projects, whatever you’re working on. If you’d like to place something, get in touch. $200 for four ads, 280 characters each.

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🛒 Nepenthes Los Angeles Flea Market.

Sunday, June 7th at WHR HQ, Costa Mesa, CA.

Nepenthes Los Angeles hosts a one-day shopping event featuring selections from Engineered Garments, Needles, and South2 West8, alongside with store-exclusive items.

🛒 Ford General Archive Sale at Old Town Art Fair

June 10-14th. 1712 N. Wells St. Chicago.

• $5-$100 items
• Spring/Summer pieces
• archival women’s clothes & shoes
• natural garments
• 50-70% off select brands

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

Why Genuine Patina is Personal, and Priceless

“What objects capable of withstanding time and frequent use have to offer.” [Untapped]

Tree of Life

“Are there enough post oaks to sustain Texas barbecue?” [Oxford American]

Insane Coastal California Driftwood Skyscraper

“Gone now, but WOW!” [Lloyd Kahn]

Everlane and the Death of the “Good” Millennial Life-Style Brand

“The retailer once embodied a hope that clothes could be mass-manufactured and high-quality. Now it’s owned by the fast-fashion giant Shein.” [New Yorker*]

Your Power Tools Got Worse On Purpose

“How TTI and Stanley Black & Decker took the same playbook in opposite directions.” [Worse on Purpose]

You Can Give Knicks Fans T-Shirts. But Will They Wear Them? Well …

“In arenas all across the league, N.B.A. fans embrace the monochrome T-shirt as a way to show team spirit. New Yorkers aren’t having it.” [NYT*]

The Great Hotel Blanding

“It’s getting harder and harder to tell the difference between a $300-a-night room and one that costs many times that.” [Bloomberg*]

A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.

South2 West8 Ranger Shirt

Junior’s Blue Stripe Oxford Cloth Button-Down Sport Shirt

Phigvel Poplin Cloth Utility Jacket - Faded Olive

Rayon Vert Furio Shorts

Parapack B-CAP in Saltbrush

J. Crew Extra-large Seaport tote bag in canvas

James Fox of Crockett & Jones

Cutting out the BS in a sea of oversaturation has been on our minds lately — Crockett & Jones is a good answer to that. The firm has been making shoes in Northampton since 1879. Family-owned, still running the same factory, still doing Goodyear welt construction the way they always have. We recently sat down with Head of Marketing James Fox to talk about lasts, his Frankensteined Chelsea boots, and what the future holds for the brand.

What’s the secret to the longevity of Crockett & Jones?

If you mean our products it’s down to two things. Materials and the skilled hands of those who make our shoes. But if you are referring to Crockett & Jones as a whole, there is no secret. Most luxury goods companies spend millions trying to buy it, or fake it, and it boils down to one thing: Authenticity.

Obviously, in a family-owned and run business that spans more than 140 years, you need some luck, but for authenticity, we have a great springboard for pretty much every decision the family ever need to make. Product, keep it authentic. Materials, keep it authentic. Skilled staff and their training keep it authentic. Marketing and Sales, keep it authentic. Keeping everything authentic and honest resonates deeply with our customers, and nothing demonstrates this better than last year’s data: 60% of our annual turnover comes from repeat business. So, unless we sell out to a luxury goods firm, we plan on keeping everything as authentic as the world will allow.

So if longevity comes from a mindset of authenticity, short-termism comes from the opposite. Being an independent family management team allows us to prioritise quality of profits. If we try to force it, fake it, or veer from our path with the mindset of making quick profits by cutting corners, increasing margins, or outsourcing production, we start thinking short-term. Short-term thinking always comes from those who stand to gain something from it, not from those who are trying to build century-old, multi-generational businesses. If you want to be around for a long time, think long-term.

What’s the first pair of shoes you remember genuinely caring about?

Oddly, the first pair of shoes, boots in fact, that I genuinely cared about was the one pair of boots in my collection (that’s a lie) that requires absolutely no care whatsoever. It was and still is a pair of Chelsea 5s in Rough Out Suede that I had turned into Chelsea 11. The guys in the making room added a storm well for me, the only difference between 5 and 11. They’re not supposed to be able to do it, but they managed to pinch enough material from the seat (heel) to make it an all-rounder storm welt. I prefer it.

As I graduated through the collection, owning so many different styles from the very best antique calf special orders to unlined dark brown suede loafers, I quickly realised that there is a totally different side to Crockett & Jones that wasn’t really being spoken about or promoted. And that comes from the Head of Marketing! It was a bit of an epiphany moment for the wider company and me.

At the time, I was travelling the world on behalf of the company, mainly in Asia, where Crockett & Jones, as our logo says, is thought of as ‘Makers of Fine Shoes Since 1879’. Whilst this is true and at the time was the backbone of sales, Crockett & Jones is so much more than ‘just’ makers of fine shoes. Since owning, wearing, enjoying, and beating up my bulletproof modified-Chelsea 5s throughout many UK winters, I have spent years making others aware of this very different, and arguably more enjoyable side to Crockett & Jones.

The last determines almost everything. Is there one in your range that never quite got the appreciation it deserved?

The 371. It came shortly after the 363, so it features the updated back part with excellent fitting. The 371 however is an extremely aggressive walled last. The sharpest in the collection. It produces an almost Germanic/Austrian-looking forepart with a sort of American vibe! Tough to explain, but it’s making a comeback this Autumn Winter! I am super excited as it has produced one of the best-looking boots I have ever seen from C&J.

What’s the most important decision in making a shoe that nobody ever asks about?

There are thousands of decisions and 200+ operations that go into making every pair. From a media perspective, it is the last. Not everyone is as knowledgeable as you, Michael, and I genuinely cannot remember the last time a menswear magazine or website asked about the famous Crockett & Jones lasts!

From a customer’s perspective, the unsung hero of every Goodyear welted shoe is probably the insole and cork filler. It sounds so trivial, but it’s what your foot sits on hour after hour, day after day. We only use the highest quality insoles that are cut from leather bends (half of a hide), in house, in our own preparation department, which is essentially a factory within a factory. This way, we remain in full control of the quality. We never use leatherboard because it is cheap and doesn’t last very long. The cork filler is the material that sits between the sole and the insole. The unsung hero of comfort as the insole mould to the shape of your foot.

What’s a Crockett & Jones style that deserves more appreciation?

There are a few. The collection is full of some really attractive-looking shoes that probably get overlooked because they are in such esteemed company. Chukka 4 is a relatively new Chukka on the new wedge sole, and Dover an equally new Derby. Both are made on the new 394 last, which Jonathan Jones hailed as his best-fitting last to date. Neither have done brilliantly which has surprised me. The other style that caught me out was Falmouth. Personally, I think it’s one of the best-looking boat styles in the world. Maybe it’s the price for this type of shoe, but needless to say, it’s a really nice-looking shoe and an easy alternative to a Loafer.

What’s changed about the menswear conversation over the last ten years that you’ve found most interesting?

The acceptance of casual wear in the workplace. The death and rebirth of tailoring and the breaking down of menswear silos. Mixing styles and clothing is accepted, and it’s encouraging men to be more adventurous with their own personal style.

The two-piece and three-piece suits seem to be making a comeback of late, but over the past decade, the decline in formal workwear has been systemic to the great benefit of businesses like Crockett & Jones. We do smart-classic and smart-casual really well.

In my opinion, WFH has had a greater impact on menswear than anything in its history. And from our perspective, it paved the way for growth of our boot collection and it drove us to develop more unlined suede, and more flexible and comfortable Loafers.

Is there a craftsman or maker, in shoes or anywhere else, whose work you’ve been paying attention to lately?

I like what Alex is doing over at Beorma Leather. He’s a good guy with a great story. They have a long way to go, but he has the right mentality. As long as he doesn’t try to run too quickly and he focuses on building a strong D2C sales channel with some great products, he’ll build a really nice business.

What will the future hold for Crockett & Jones?

For now, we are confident that the future is bright. The factory is the key. Materials is a constant battle, and making sure we have the next generation of skilled staff in the factory is an everyday concern. Even sourcing parts for machines is getting harder and harder, but nothing is impossible. The factory is a little under max capacity at the moment which gives us room to grow D2C production and support our existing retail stores and E-commerce channels which have been trading really well again since the global pandemic. We have such a great customer base who, over the years, have really bought into Crockett & Jones, and appreciate us as a shoe manufacturer and a brand.

It’s really hard to know what the next decade or two look like if the last decade is anything to go by. Global economies and conflicts makes global trading far more complicated that it should be, and the barrage of negativity from governmental jostling makes the local market uncertain. We are still in the infancy of AI, which will bring pros and cons I am sure. AI cannot produce a pair of Goodyear welted shoes, but it can help raise customer awareness. I think a bigger concern with AI is the global and financial instability that it might bring.

For now though, we are confident that demand for quality remains strong and we are confident that our customers appreciate our shoes, and the pride and passion that goes into producing them.

Welcome to Classifieds. A place to share what’s happening in and around our world. Shops, events, newsletters, projects, whatever you’re working on. If you’d like to place something, get in touch. $200 for four ads, 280 characters each.

Contact Us

🛒 Every Day Is Trash Day Pop-Up at Western Hydronamic Research

Saturday, May 30th. 9am-12pm. 1930 Placentia Ave. B3. Costa Mesa, CA 9267

Specialty Product. Coffee by Sky McKee. Trash Poker Workshop.

🛒 Big Rock Candy Mountaineering SS26 Pop-Up at Wythe NYC

May 29-31. 59 Orchard St. NYC.

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

The Washington Metro, a Wonder Underground

“The capital’s rapid transit system, a testament to the value of good public design, is a work of Brutalist beauty and timeless civic dignity.” [WSJ]

How Phish Reinvented Sphere Forever

“During its second residency in Las Vegas in April, the legendary jam band introduced a few innovations that turned the cutting-edge venue into an instrument of improvisation, including a revolutionary virtual lighting rig. For the first time, the teams behind those technologies talk about how they did it.” [GQ]

Read more

With summer just around the corner, we put together a few books to add to your reading list, along with some recs from trusted friends. Don’t forget to hydrate and reapply every two hours.

Nicolle Yaron of Extremely Helpful

King of Ashes by SA Crosby

Imagine if a finance bro got dragged back into his deeply cursed hometown because his brother owes money to the kind of criminals who make regular mobsters seem like members of a yacht club. Violent, funny, sweaty, incredibly entertaining.

Chain-Gang All-Stars by Nana Kwame Adjei-Brenyah

Dystopian prison gladiator fights, but also surprisingly emotional and smart. Feels like if prestige television and the American prison industrial complex developed a reality show together.

The Shards by Brett Easton Ellis

Rich kids in 1980s LA. A serial killer who may or may not be in their orbit. Incredible descriptions of clothes, cars, status anxiety, and the feeling that everyone around you might secretly be evil. Basically, catnip for anyone interested in aesthetics, culture, and deeply damaged beautiful people.

Playground by Richard Powers

Timothée Chalamet just attached himself to the movie. Brad Pitt’s company is producing. It follows three friends from college through the tech boom in Silicon Valley and eventually to a remote Polynesian island, weaving together themes of friendship, love, and the rapid rise of AI.

East of Eden by John Steinbeck

The great American novel. I don’t say that lightly. It’s sweeping and intimate at the same time. A multigenerational saga about two families in California’s Salinas Valley, and really about good and evil and whether people can change. The Netflix series with Florence Pugh is coming this fall, so read it now while you can still be insufferable about having done so.

4000 Weeks by Oliver Burkeman

If you live to 80, you have roughly 4,000 weeks. That’s it. This book is not a productivity guide. It’s a deeply helpful reality check about how little time we actually have and why trying to optimize every second of your life is maybe the thing ruining it.

Taylor Stacey

Conquistador: Hernan Cortes, King Montezuma, and the Last Stand of the Aztecs by Buddy Levy

Buddy Levy almost single-handedly repairs the damage done by Mel Gibson.

The Art Thief by Michael Finkel

Fascinating true story of obsession and a specific madness that comes from having taste you can’t afford.

Body and Soul by Frank Conroy

A New York novel about music, obsession, and slowly becoming yourself. If you liked Stoner, this scratches a similar itch.

The Son by Philipp Meyer

Wished Lonesome Dove was darker and meaner? Start here.

Rosecrans Baldwin of Meditations in an Emergency

On the Calculation of Volume by Solvej Balle

I’m hooked on Solvej Balle’s series On the Calculation of Volume, about a French bookseller who’s fallen out of time. The fourth in the series appeared recently, though I recommend starting at the beginning. Think Groundhog Day but instead of Bill Murray’s hijinks, you get a lot of really thoughtful meditations on the nature of time, solitude, and perseverance.

Michael B. Dougherty of Mensweird

Hip-Hop Is History by Questlove

Rap’s preeminent scholar and super fan lays out a decade-by-decade history of the genre, including playlists.

Let the Great World Spin by Colum McCann

Set during August in NYC, the novel’s exploration of messy human dynamics makes for a perfect summer novel.

Miles Fisher of Fisher’s Island

The Magus by John Fowles

This book came to me by way of an old friend, which feels correct for a book like this. It is not exactly contemporary, but absolutely captivating: a young Englishman on a Greek island, a mysterious millionaire, a series of psychological games that become harder and harder to separate from reality. It’s a tightly woven tapestry that is lush, theatrical, and a little maddening. A reminder that some novels are less like stories than rooms you enter and don’t entirely leave.

Michael Williams

A Short History of Nearly Everything by Bill Bryson

There isn’t an author who makes me learn and laugh at the same rate as Bill Bryson. After reading A Walk in the Woods, I went down a serious Bill Bryson rabbit hole and fell in love with his writing style and wit.

Titan: The Life of John D. Rockefeller, Sr. by Ron Chernow

J.D. Rockefeller was an incredible personality. Despite what you might think, Rockefeller was not into the rise-and-grind culture. In the book, Chernow describes his pace of work as “aggressively leisurely”.

Say Nothing: A True Story of Murder and Memory in Northern Ireland by Patrick Radden Keefe

A moving story of “the troubles” in Northern Ireland, which, as an American, was something I wasn’t all that familiar with. Described as giving “moral vertigo,” this is a deep and haunting book. Say Nothing is a well-told work of non-fiction that beautifully tells a highly textured human story.

Home Game: An Accidental Guide to Fatherhood by Michael Lewis

Not the typical stuff from Lewis, but this book is relatable and fun. If you have kids and like Michael Lewis books, you will breeze through this with a smile.

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

Hanoi’s humble beer glass and the memory of a nation

[The Sunday Long Read]

The Undeniable Creep of Baseball’s Backstop Ads

Want to know how rich your favorite baseball team is? Just take a look behind home plate. Once you notice the differences, they are hard to un-see. [Club Sportico]

A Hundred Years of David Attenborough

For generations of TV viewers, the beloved presenter has linked the patch of glass in our living rooms and the wide world beyond. And he’s not done yet. [New Yorker*]

The Analog Charms of New York’s Intercoms

“New York apartment buzzers are loud, often broken and haven’t been upgraded since the ’70s. But would we have it any other way?” [NYT*]

GQ Is Dead. Long Live GQ.

“The iconic magazine is entering a new era. Could I learn to love it again?” [Mensweird]

What Makes a Great Bookshop?

“My favourites in London” [The Culture Dump]

After a 40-year wait, technology finally enables three-sided zipper design

[Tech Xplore]

A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.

Buck Mason Japanese Loomstate Selvedge Full Saddle Jean

Best Made Co. Possibilities Jacket Navy

J. Mueser Olive Tencel Work Shirt

Velva Sheen Stripe Tee - Coyote

Norse Projects x Paraboot Fasan Shoe

Summer

Cape Cod Beach Chair

Oyster Tempo Pro

American Trench Activities Short

William Ellery Pocket Picnic Shirt (Striped Rope)

Yeti Rambler 16oz Stackable Beach Cocktail Cup

Solbello Sun Shade

OMTC No106 Shirt Jacket

Ray Ban Meta Glasses Gen 2

Kyle Rancourt

Kyle Rancourt grew up around manufacturing. His family business, Rancourt & Co., has been making footwear in Maine for generations, and by the time he was seventeen, he was already traveling with his father to Italian tanneries and coming home with shoes that looked completely different from what most American stores were carrying at the time. Kyle’s also someone whose perspective on products we’ve always trusted, so when he launched Pinebury, we were interested right away. Since then, the brand has carved out its own lane with merino wool cycling apparel and a more straightforward approach to performance clothing. We spoke with him about what carries over between footwear and apparel manufacturing, the Allied Cycle Works bike he’s been riding for the last six years, and why old Tour de France footage has been holding his attention lately.

You’ve spent a lot of time wearing and thinking about merino wool. What separates the pieces people live in from the ones that sound good on paper but never really become favorites?

I️ think what separates the two is primarily comfort. Garments that are made from soft and comfortable fabric with a great fit are the ones you’ll reach for daily. I️ always look for the piece that feels good on my body, breathes well, and is soft against my skin.

Growing up around Rancourt & Co., when did you first realize you were paying attention to products differently than most people around you?

From six or seven years old my mom would take me school shopping and I️ had very particular tastes. I️ always had specific shoes and clothes that I️ had to get for the new school year. Then around age 17 I️ traveled to Italy with my dad on a business trip. He was sourcing leather from Italian tanneries. I️ must have explored a dozen shoe stores and came back with a couple of pairs of Italian-made leather shoes that were different than anything I’d been seeing in US stores. That’s when I️ probably realized I️ was looking at footwear and clothing much differently than my friends but at the same time it was normal in my family. My dad would examine the leather and construction of the shoes I️ bought and render a verdict.

What made you think you could actually make the cycling clothing you weren’t finding anywhere else?

That’s difficult to answer, but I️ have a few thoughts. First my experience in manufacturing and commitment to American manufacturing. 12 years (at the time) in the industry and I’d made a lot of connections, so I️ had a pretty robust network to help get me started. Second, as a lifelong cyclist and outdoor athlete I️ had a ton of experience with performance-oriented clothing and a good sense of what works and what doesn’t. Last, looking around I️ realized no one was specializing in merino wool in cycling and I️ saw an opportunity. Many people, including myself, were sick of the same over-priced synthetic clothing that was engineered for elite pro athletes and not comfortable for the average rider. I️ bet that there would be demand for American-made merino wool cycling apparel and active wear that prioritizes comfort and durability.

What’s a piece of gear you’ve owned forever that still makes you think somebody absolutely nailed it?

The first one that comes to mind is my road bike from Allied. I️ haven’t owned it “forever” but 6 years is a long time in the rapidly evolving carbon race bike sector. I️ have an original Alfa and it’s the best bike I’ve ever owned. Made in Bentonville, AR.

I️ also have a Schott Jacket, shawl collar peacoat in Navy waxed canvas with a wool lining, that I’ve owned for 15 years, and still wear regularly. It’s a great coat for Maine weather.

You grew up around a family business built on making things in America and now you’re doing it again in a completely different category. What’s something that translated directly, and what didn’t?

Great question. Almost everything translates directly. Although Pinebury is still small our systems and operations are set up to be a much larger business given my experience running a much larger business at Rancourt & Co. US manufacturing can be challenging so ensuring we are as organized and efficient as possible gives us the best opportunity to succeed.

While I️ know manufacturing, apparel manufacturing is different from footwear manufacturing in some ways. I’ve had to learn all of the intricacies of spreading and cutting lightweight merino wool, the many different types of garment construction and how to utilize them effectively, and managing inconsistency in fit across a wide range of fabrics.

What’s been holding your attention lately — gear, places, bikes, books, old ads, anything like that?

Love this question as there is such an ebb and flow to interests in life. While bike racing dominated much of my time and attention over the last 15 years that has shifted in the time since I started Pinebury. I️ have a personal answer to this question and a business/brand answer.

Personally I’ve been super engaged in the art and science of espresso lately. I️ got my first home espresso machine in December 2025 and three months later moved it to my office and upgraded to the Fellow Series 1 at home. I’ve gone deep on technique, preparation and beans. It’s paid off because I’m making espresso almost as good as any specialty coffee shop I’ve ever been to. When I️ travel I️ always dedicate time to exploring the local coffee scene and buying beans from local roasters. Two notables recently are FreeForm in Sedona and Onyx in Bentonville. Both sell their beans online and are excellent. Light Roast ftw!

On the brand side of things, my wife has been playing 1950’s Tour de France videos on YouTube in our Portland, Maine store and their cycling-kit style has inspired us. They wore wool jerseys and shorts. The jerseys were typically three button collared shirts like a polo, with pockets on the front and back. And the wool bike shorts had a much shorter inseam than the knee length “aero” style you see nowadays (with some exceptions). It felt like a balance of performance and style, which is exactly what Pinebury stands for.

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

For a Certain Kind of Guy, Even a Diaper Bag Needs to Be ‘Tactical’

[NYT*]

The Joy Series: Hometown Announcers

“An essay on the voices that help us fall in love with the game of baseball.” [Joe Posnanski]

Some Good Shop Scissors, Basic to Luxury

[Never Sponsored*]

Read more

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

How American Cool Dies

[NYT*]

The Founding Story Behind Japan’s Oldest Whisky Maker

“The House of Suntory is often credited with putting Japanese whisky on the map.” [T&C]

The forever phwoar of the Ford Bronco

“Collectors still can’t resist the all-American SUV” [FT*]

Object of Obsession: French Workwear

“Featuring Jacob Elordi and Austin Butler.” [what’s mine is yours]

How Special Forces Guys Became Menswear Moodboard Staples

“Before 9/11, America’s special forces operators and secret service agents looked like Uzi-toting math teachers. Today, they’re muscled, bearded, black-clad, tactically outfitted door-kickers. How we got here reveals as much about US military adventurism as it does style.” [GQ]

A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.

POPEYE Made in USA Catalog 2026

Camp Snap CS-PRO

Engineered Garments x Alden - Indy Oxford

Battenwear Local Shorts - Natural

Coherence Robert Wool/Linen/Mohair D.Blue

Sperry x BEAMS+ MIL CVO Sneaker

Lesca Lunetier

Cain

Mose

Tupac

Pica

Corbs

Dino

Gaston

Ethan Glenn

Ethan Glenn built a large audience on TikTok before Every Other Thursday existed, posting vintage finds and style content and fielding constant questions about where things were from before eventually asking himself why he was sending that traffic somewhere else. What began as an online archive of things worth wearing has since grown into a storefront on Prince Street in SoHo, built around clothes for real life made from something that doesn’t have the word “poly” in it. We recently caught up with Ethan to talk about building a brand from social media, what retail taught him that the internet couldn’t, and why the best dressed people are often the ones saying the least about what they’re wearing.

You went to culinary school before this. Does any of that thinking show up in how you make clothes?

To be honest, culinary doesn’t factor into my day-to-day life (other than cooking), but the reason I went into culinary back then was to feed my creative brain. In a way that translates into everything I do, including EOT. What I love most about running the brand is the ability to make/do whatever I want that’s speaking to me at the time.

EOT started as a kind of moodboard on social media before becoming a brand. Once you shifted from building an audience to actually making product, what changed? Did anything have to be sacrificed in that transition?

Yes, EOT was a mood board that progress into product with the demand from the audience. The Tiktok was my personal page that fueled the initial growth of the brand, like many founder led brands that came out of the pandemic. The clothing came second, I was just making content for fun- and then as my full time income, but clothing was never on my radar. When I realized the potential market I had at my fingertips the main driving force bridging a gap between the vintage clothes I was wearing and people were asking where they were from and finding a way to remake some of those items in a way that I deemed a “better” version. Pattern tweak here, different fabric there, etc. I defiently took my foot off the gas of my own content pretty early on, which I was happy to do. I started social media as a means to an end, knowing it could lead to something much larger than myself. So when EOT started to take off an have a presence of it’s own I dove head first and went with it.

A lot of the collection draws from vintage references, whether it’s ’80s fisherman sweaters, old cardigans, or classic golf knits. At what point do those references stop being useful?

The reference pieces only get you so far, for us its the general shape, or the fabric, or some aspect that is different than something on the shelf of stores currently. Often times its the shape and fit. But after that you are in a no mans land where you are building something different and something you need your own ideas for. As someone with no design or clothing development knowledge, this isn’t easy. Luckily, we aren’t a captial F fashion brand as I like to say, so when we make a shirt for example, it can be as simple as finding a vintage shirt with the right shape and fit to it, doing some tweaks, and then sourcing a fabric that I think would be nice to have on your skin. Not the sexiest answer but really we just make clothes for real life. Clothes you want to live in day in and day out. Clothes that are maybe a bit different that what the big brands put out these days. Same general idea, but ours fits you better, or is made from something that doesn’t have the word poly in it.

As someone who’s now been on both sides, what’s your take on the relationship social media and menswear have right now?

Oversaturated. In the worst way. Yes anyone can do it but what was exciting and fun about making content about clothes as a man when I started was that there were maybe 5 other guys on tiktok that were doing the same. Now there are 500 every day. I also think it used to be more fun and less salesy, if that makes sense. I feel like every other video I see now is about how to recreate this outfit (link to buy x), or heres my fav new things from x (link to buy). When I was doing content full time back in 2021 it was much more, heres some clothes I put on, now heres some random thing I’m gonna talk about. Less emphasis on the clothes and more emphasis on just destigmatizing men caring about clothes and how they look, not trying to sell something through an affiliate link. And if that helped you wear a new thing or buy something new then great. I truly think the people with the best style or truly people who inspire what you are wearing are some sort of a uniform dresser and don’t tell you what they’re wearing. It’s just a sweater and jeans or shirt and jeans 9/10 times for me.

Now that you have your own store in NYC, what do you learn from someone standing in front of the rack that you can’t get from a screen?

Retail is king. Not everywhere, because most cities I think have a dying retail scene, but in NYC retail is king. I grew up only buying clothes at a store or mall, so the idea of buying online would have felt so foreign. Now it is the complete norm. We were online for 4 years and I feel like we are a completely new company now that we are in store. A fresh start. Whether its as simple as knowing what people gravitate towards or the ability to try multiple sizes, retail has changed how we operate. The other issue I think with online brands especially post pandemic when this sector exploded, is that there is a lack of responsibility. You make the things, you put them up, people buy them, then thats kind of it. You don’t realize that there are real people spending real money and really (or not) wearing things you made. The most rewarding part of the store is seeing people come in regularely saying, loved the shirt I wear it all the time so I came back to get another color. That makes me the happiest person ever and you don’t get that from seeing an online order come through.

What are some other brands you like that more people should know about?

Not a hot take by any means, but I love Morjas shoes and have for years. I have a good relationship with them and strongly believe that a nice pair of leather shoes can elevate your overall style, even if you’re just wearing jeans and a sweater like me. We also may or may not have a collab with them coming out this summer...

What’s the next thing you’re excited to make?

We have a blazer coming this fall along with a couple custom ties and I’m very excited about that. As the audience grows up, and the zeitgiest as we saw with the JFK JR show, I think there is a spot in the market that we can connect to with a unlined, simple but well fitting blazer that you can wear with jeans and a tee or with a shirt tucked in and a tie. People want to say suits are coming back but realistically most people aren’t wearing a full suit. But give someone a blazer and they’ll throw it on with their jeans and a knit to go out for dinner.

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

NASA Ivy

“Mid century control rooms and the accidental uniform of American menswear” [Easy on the Ivy]

How an iconic Masters moment came to be, and has come to last

[The Athletic]

Hands off my hat! The hidden power of headwear and ‘hatiquette’ in early modern England

[The Conversation]

The Oldest Chinese Restaurant in the U.S.—Now

“With the Closing of The Pekin Noodle Parlor in Butte, Montana, Wisconsin’s Cozy Inn Moves Up.” [The Mix with Robert Simonson]

The Dark Wizard

The Dark Wizard is worth your time. HBO’s four-part documentary on the late Dean Potter covers familiar ground if you’ve seen Free Solo. Yosemite climbing, El Cap, sweaty palms while watching, that whole world. Potter was one of the more fascinating people to come out of it, constantly pushing toward bigger risks through climbing, base jumping, and eventually proximity wingsuit flying. What really stayed with me though was the contrast with Alex Honnold, who shows up throughout the series. Honnold has been documented endlessly at this point. There’s clearly something in him that just doesn’t process fear the same way most people do. Potter comes across as incredibly gifted and deeply unsettled at the same time. He was searching for something he could never quite name and ultimately never found.

There’s a ton of interview footage with Potter himself, but it’s the diary entries that pull you in. At times they feel almost too personal, but they also give the whole thing its weight. You get dropped directly into his head in a way interviews alone never could. It also makes him feel surprisingly sympathetic. Someone who could be difficult and clearly let his ego get away from him, but who was also struggling in ways that weren’t always visible from the outside. Knowing how the story ends hangs over the entire series.

Beyond his climbing and flying career, the series spends a lot of time on the tension between adventure and commerce. Potter initially resisted all of it: sponsors, the Masters of Stone video series, anything that felt too close to selling out. Eventually he realized he needed money to keep pushing toward the things he wanted to do, and that meant compromises he wasn’t always comfortable with. Patagonia was the clearest example. Potter spent years as one of the brand’s most recognizable ambassadors, showing up in catalogs and campaigns. It’s worth remembering how much has changed in twenty years. Back then, the catalog was still the premier medium for showcasing ambassadors, and there’s something quaint about that now. The Delicate Arch climb in 2006 is where that relationship finally cracked. The fallout was immediate, and watching Rick Ridgeway talk through it is uncomfortable in a way that feels intentional. Potter later ended up in a long-term relationship with Jen Rapp, Patagonia’s former Head of Communications, who appears throughout the series. Just another layer to the story.

Style Notes

— Climbing has always been a reliable source of style inspiration and it’s easy to understand why. Early Yvon Chouinard photos have lived on moodboards for years now, and you can still see brands like Big Rock Candy Mountaineering and William Ellery pulling from the same world. The clothes serve a purpose first and get beaten into the ground in the process. Potter probably didn’t think much about what he was wearing beyond chopping a hat into an improvised visor, and that’s exactly why it worked. Another one of the countless examples of how inherently cool dressing purely out of necessity is. Being extremely tall and lanky doesn’t hurt either.

— What made the footage even more surreal was what they were actually wearing while doing a lot of this stuff. You don’t expect to see someone climbing the face of Half Dome with no safety gear, let alone dressed for a summer cookout. Potter was highlining in jeans and an Adidas soccer jersey. Neither of them looked the part, which somehow made it all feel even crazier.

— I still can’t get behind the capri pants, functional or not.

— Vintage Patagonia is obviously always front and center in this world, but several of the vintage prAna pieces caught my eye and feel like a relatively untapped corner of eBay.

Four episodes. Stream The Dark Wizard on HBO Max.

— TS

A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.

Casatlantic TAZA

Maintenance of Everything by Stewart Brand

Billykirk No. 630 Rally Watch Strap, Onyx Cordovan

XTEINK X4 E-Book Reader

h/t Selectism

BEAMS+ Open Collar Sailing Print Shirt - Blue

Chad Coll of C.S. Coll Spoon Co.

C.S. Coll Spoon Co. embodies much of what we want to see in the world. Artisan, small batch, quality and a highly specific offering. Judging from how often (and how quickly) the drops sell out it seems many other people see the good in the company as well. We connected with Chad Coll and immediately wanted to learn more about just how he became a modern-day spoon kingpin of Kittery, Maine.

Chad, why spoons of all things?

I kind of fell for every part of the idea of a spoon. It’s one of the first tools we ever use, simple and familiar, but it can also be shaped and refined into something that borders on art. At a certain point, it almost stops being a tool and becomes something you’d hang on a wall.

We never had those dreaded black plastic cooking utensils in our house — my mom has used the same wooden spoons my entire life. Why did we ever get away from cooking with wood utensils?

I’m no historian, but there was definitely a time when plastic felt like the “clean” and modern choice. Now we know it doesn’t always hold up, especially at high heat and it can bring things into your food that you probably don’t want there. Beyond that, there’s just something lost when your kitchen is full of flimsy black plastic. Wood feels better, looks better, and connects you a bit more to what you’re making.

What are some other kitchen brands you like or appreciate from a business perspective?

I’ve always appreciated Blanc Creatives. Cory’s been making incredible kitchen pieces in the Virginia Blue Ridge for years. It’s a great example of balancing craft and function. And while there are a lot of great cutting boards out there, getting a Boos kitchen island was a game-changer for me. They’ve been doing butcher block right for a long time.

Is there a concern about mold or bacteria with using wood, or can it be cleaned like anything else?

We treat everything with food-safe mineral oil, which helps create a barrier against moisture and buildup. There are a lot of opinions out there about wood care, but the big thing is to use an oil that won’t go rancid. Most cooking oils eventually will. For cleaning, just keep it simple, warm water and mild dish soap. That’s it. We use hard maple, which is dense, tight-grained, and naturally resistant to moisture and bacteria.

You are frequently sold out. Are you surprised by the response?

I honestly never expected this to reach this level. Our recent restocks have sold out in seconds, where typically a restock of that size should last over a week. We’re still a very small operation, and even calling it a “business” sometimes feels wild. We’re working toward more regular restocks to make things a bit easier to grab. I’m incredibly grateful to be able to do this and support my family through it.

Do you have plans for expansion beyond wood spoons and utensils?

We’ll expand over time, but nothing too crazy. I like keeping things simple, focused on well-made wooden utensils. That said, I’m always curious about what’s next, so we’ll see where it goes.

Mother’s Day Gifts Worth Giving.

Bouqs

The go-to, fail-safe gift for every mom. We love this service and highly recommend it if you don’t have a local go-to florist.

RŌZ Evergreen Hair Styling Cream

From Mara Rozak, Emma Stone’s stylist.

Raja Doggo Aunt Sassy - Pink and Beige Floral Vine Block Print Dog Bed

So chic, and a hell of a lot better looking than the shaggy one that dogs love.

Prada Wish Re-Nylon pouch

So fabulous, everyone needs an all-season pouch. I will get one and wear it to a black tie wedding in June.

La Ligne The Perfect Sweater

A perfect cream sweater. Where's the lie? [that's what the kids say] it really is perfect.

Stan Smith Lo Pro Shoes

That go with everything? A low-cost solution to the designer sneaker [pro tip: size down].

Santa Maria Novella Acqua della Regina Wax Tablets

Scented Wax Tablets for closets and drawers.

Serge Lutens Fragrance Discovery Set

No reason to commit to just one scent whatever doesn’t work can always be used as guest room scent.

Sophie Buhai Vessel Necklace

Great for the constant gardener.

Sophie Buhai Pillbox

Incentive to take those vitamins!

Emme Parsons Moccasins

Phoebe Philo Sunglasses

Yes, they’re dramatic and might scare the kids at first, but they’ll get used to them.

Official Museum Exhibition Posters

I’m having a weird love affair with this idea of just buying the official poster from Etsy. Reminds me of the restaurant Blaue Gans in Tribeca RIP the walls were covered in old posters, and you could sit there and have a glass of Grüner and a plate of Spätzle while you looked around and read them all. Here’s some that’s ‘easy listening.’

Massimo Dutti foldable leather AirPods case

Call it by your name toiletry bag from bandannas Toiletry Bag

Kids, Wait Till You Hear This!

A Liza Memoir. Finally.

Aarke Carbonator Pro Stainless Steel

Marble Coasters

Dries Van Noten Mirror

Soft Services Theraplush “Hold” Refillable Overnight Retinol Hand Repair Cream

Chava INES OVERSIZED SHIRT IN BLUE & WHITE STRIPES

Chan Luu Phoebe Drop Earrings White Pearl

Sunspel Relaxed Poplin Shirt

Eberjey x ILIA Silk Rituals

Perla Valtierra Vases, Mugs and Candleholders

Monogrammed Yeti Cup

Facial Massage Gift Card

Williams Sonoma Market Tote

Merz b. Schwanen x Gardenheir Heavyweight Tee

Viberg Roper Boot

Campbell’s of Beauly Field Chore Jacket

imogene + willie willie carson

Freenote Cloth Deck Pant in Bark

Corridor Misha Overshirt

Easymoc Camp Moc - Roughout Grizzly

PennBilt The Airman

Hawker Indigo End-on-End Camp Shirt

Manresa Ravine Short

Sunspel Sea Island Cashmere Crew Neck Jumper

Nike ACG Zegama

Sid Mashburn Luke Work Shirt

AYR Original T 3-Pack

OMTC N°114 Lax Short Sleeve Shirt

Wallace & Barnes chambray workshirt

Tom Beckbe Canvas Tailgater Bag

Crockett & Jones Harvard 2

Arc’teryx Ossa Stowhood Jacket

Padmore & Barnes P204

Outerknown Sun Shirt

Bedrock Sandals Cairn Evo 3D PRO

Rose & Co. A7

Birdwell 808 SurfStretch Side Pocket Boardshorts

District Vision + New Balance 1080

William Ellery Dreamboat Hat

Wythe Flat Front Cotton Linen Twill Chino - Faded Olive

Quaker Marine Hand-blocked Bandana

Finisterre Forecast Windcheater Jacket

Earth/Studies MP-107 Foraging Pant

The Anthology Lazyman Jacket - Italian Greyhound

Margaret Howell x Barbour Gilet

P. Johnson Navy Tie

Junior’s Biscuit Crepe Cotton Polo

Randy’s Garments Scoured 12oz Indigo Denim Chore Coat

Kamakura Konbu Bucket Hat

Rivay Enfield Officer’s Shirt

Dehen Flight Vest

BillyKirk Large Carryall

Heimat Raglan Rugby Shirt Seashell

Galibier Super Varappe mid

Berg & Berg Dag Sport Summer Tweed Jacket - Light Blue/Ecru

J. Mueser Blue Triple Stripe Work Shirt

Bather Pine Beach Tote

Florence Marine Airtex Boardshort

PF Flyers Grounder Low-Top Sneaker

Wax London Socks

J.Crew Poplin Shirt

New Balance 9927 Snekaers

Save Khaki 6” Hemp Stripe Easy Shorts - Blue

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

For Those Keeping Score, an Ancient Baseball Art Lives On

“Scorekeeping has been long endangered, but the re-emergence of scorebooks says a lot about why baseball itself is having a moment in 2026.” [Sportico*]

Anatomica Paris – menswear for the disciplined dresser

“The shop where function will always trump fashion” [FT]

Everything Drake’s white-labels

[The Prep Club*]

How ‘What Happened’ Makes the Most Sought-After Backpacks by Mountain Pros

“Slovenian alpinist Neza Peterca turned a lifetime of design, sewing, and repair experience into an all-custom technical backpack brand” [Field Mag]